Maple Key Obstacles on the Bowling Green

This week, the James Garden lawn bowling club’s synthetic green is covered with last year’s maple seeds (called keys) that the swirling wind has blown all over the surface from the nearby park trees.

Maple keys have a thin flat wing portion that lies flat on the ground and will not disturb the path of a bowl, but each seed also has a hard round part, like a little ball bearing, that will not roll but can distinctly change the path of a lawn bowl and can stop it dead when the bowl has slowed down.


Although these seeds can be swept up, more keep blowing in if there is a wind, and those already on the green keep moving from one place to another. These add an extra obstacle to competitive bowling. Some people say that bad greens are just as bad for everybody but this is not true. Bad greens penalize better players more. The more random luck that is introduced, the more likely the poorer team is to win a match.

In the presence of maple keys littering your rink the best strategy is to throw short jacks and drive at the jack if you get down several bowls in an end. The maple keys don’t throw off fast moving drives to the same extent and if you try to draw to save there is a good chance your bowl could be sent off course by one of these seeds.  

Squatting Helps Choosing Your Stare Point in Lawn Bowls

I have found that choosing a stare point about 5 meters in advance of the front edge of the mat works best for me. When helping to instruct beginners, I often make a chalk mark that far out at approximately the correct angle for their bowls’ bias. This way the beginner gets a clearer idea of whether (s)he is properly controlling their delivery angle.

The rest of us must struggle to identify slight imperfections in the grass or carpet to stare at. I have found recently that squatting on the mat while looking down at the far bank helps me choose a stare point that is truly on the aim line. There is a bonus. After I stand up and assume my erect delivery stance, all this time holding that stare point, I deliver my bowl more quickly, because the longer I have to focus on my stare point the more likely my view of it will slip! As a consequence, I bowl better and faster.

Any Delivery Can Work So Long as it is Reproducible

At a time of year when club mentors for new bowlers are teaching the elements of the draw shot, we should be sensitive to the fact that, because of minor frailties, many of the new bowlers cannot deliver from the athletic position. The previous post suggests the different possibilities that bowlers could adopt. To emphasize the point that any delivery can give extraordinary results, so long as it can be reproduced exactly I direct readers to a video that shows  Ian (Tails) Taylor bowling at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lfeYIPR_NI. No-one will have a delivery more complicated and more difficult to reproduce than this. So remember: the reason coaches teach what they do is because what we teach are the simplest deliveries and these are the easiest to groove into a good habit. 

Teaching New Lawn Bowlers

May is the start of the lawn bowling season in Canada. All clubs try at this time of year to interest new people to become members and take up the sport. I started participating after attending an Open House at James Gardens LBC in May 2012. I help out with the mentoring and coaching at this same club as my volunteering contribution to the maintenance of the sport.

The core of the instruction is trying to give new bowlers sufficient skill delivering a draw shot that they can become involved in social bowling as a lead. What I have noticed is that our teaching methods have not changed to keep pace with the modern technologies that are widely available to our students. Because lawn bowling instruction videos are now available via the internet, teachers at the club level should be taking advantage of them. Different styles of delivery are taught and a new bowler can be directed to a bowling style  consistent with his or her physical condition, taking into account  slight disabilities such as arthritic hands, bad knees or bad backs. There are many different deliveries: the athletic delivery, the crouch delivery, the semi-crouch, the Scotttish runner and the South African. Instead of trying to teach everyone the athletic delivery, we should be showing people such videos illustrating the different styles and work with them to select the most appropriate. The different styles are well illustrated for example by the great bowler Tony Alcock at  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilifGJBDo5U.
After showing them what is available, we club mentors can let the newcomers try to imitate a selected delivery on our green. I think we will get many more people interested in lawn bowls if they can choose a delivery that is not a strain on their natural capabilities.

Don’t give Up On Your Aim Line Just Because One Bowl Misfires

Part of my practice routine is to bowl between two chalk marks separated by a space the diameter of a jack. These two marks are placed 5 meters in advance of the front edge of the mat.

 This way I get unambiguous visual feedback about how precise my control of line is. But, when I was doing this, I discovered a curious thing. Sometimes my line is right-on-the-money but still the bowl ends up very far away from the resting place of all the other practice bowls delivered before and after the suspect one. If I was in a competition, I might take this bad outcome from a single delivery as evidence that my line was wrong and I might deliver the next bowl wider or narrower as the case required. What this practice evidence showed me was that such a change could be completely wrong. I may just have encountered a misfire. The right course is probably just to continue subsequent bowling with no change in aim line. It is only if you are hitting your aim line- and two consecutive bowls go errant in the same way- that it is proven that it is your aim line that needs to change.

I got these sometimes erratic results on a synthetic carpet using fairly narrow Taylor Vector VS bowls while bowling diagonally on the green from corner to corner. (I do this to practice the firmer delivery I need on the slower natural grass.)  I could actually see, in the case of some of these misfired bowls, that the bowl tried to get over a seam, failed,

’backed up’, and came at the seam again. Therefore, this observation might not be general but just particular to narrow bowls on a fast  synthetic surface with slightly raised seams. Because changing after one errant bowl has caused me problems before though, I don't think so.  

Desperation Shots to Win at Lawn Bowls

When your team is losing badly to a team that you feel is inferior, the tactic is often to try low percentage shots in order to come back to win. Usual all this achieves is to deepen the hole you are in and widen the margin of defeat. Comebacks are more often the result of the weaker team finally running out of luck and handing over victory; so, it is a better idea to just slow down the game, keep delivering the best percentage bowl and await developments. When the opponents see you starting even a slight comeback they can easily lose concentration and collapse. Keep the pressure on!

I do not mean by this that in the last end, when you need to remove an opposing bowl in order to get the 4 shots you need, you forgo the on-shot because you are only trained for a dead draw. Ultimately you must try to do what you need to do to win. Simply, be sure that it really is the last chance and all the more likely opportunities have been exhausted. In particular, be sure it will not be possible for the opponents to flub victory on their own.

Do You Really want Lawn Bowling to be Attractive to Younger People? The Acid Test is Respotting the Jack

Many old-school lawn bowlers affirm repeatedly that they want to encourage young people to take up lawn bowling. But, very often they are not prepared to introduce those modifications to the rules of the game that would encourage younger people to be more enthusiastic. A case in point is the rule about dead ends.

Presently in Ontario, the local rule is that each team is allowed to cause one dead end in a match and that end will be replayed, but after that one dead end, any further dead end caused by the same team gives one point to the opposition. This discourages drive shots.  The tactical merit of drive shots aside, drives are exciting, dramatic, and are practiced more by younger bowlers than by older. Thus, favoring a rule that discourages drives, encourages the view that lawn bowls is an old persons’ game-sort of shuffle board with wheels!

It is not as if there is no good alternative that would limit matches to the specified number of games while not penalizing heavy shots. Respotting the jack to a preset spot if it is driven out of bounds is already used by professional bowlers and serves well to limit game durations. The change was actually introduced to make bowls more suitable for television. It just happens to be something that would make bowls more youth friendly. The trouble is that the senior members who run local tournaments, very often, on their own initiative, just opt for the rule that penalizes the team that sends the jack out of bounds.

Measuring at Lawn Bowls

As a novice, like myself, becomes better (and better known) at his home club (s)he will be drawn in fun roll-ups to play positions other than lead. If you are asked to be vice-skip you will need to be able to measure properly. Besides a measure and chalk, always carry a small towel. It is not only good for drying/cleaning bowls, but should also be used when measuring for more than one point. Lay the towel on the ground and place each scoring bowl onto the towel. This avoids confusion and ensures that a bowl already counted and set aside is not accidentally measured again. Get into the habit of doing this all the time, not just in tournaments. Bowls that are not scoring but are just in the way can be taken aside well away from the scoring zone.

Either vice can ask for a measure, and their opposite number cannot refuse the request. Some vices are not above exerting a little psychological pressure at this stage, by making it very clear to their opposite number, particularly if (s)he has not been bowling for many years, that there is absolutely no need for a measure and it is blindingly obvious which bowl is the winner. On the other hand, it is not unknown, when a measure has been insisted upon, the “bully” is to be proved wrong!

Measuring Tapes

Before beginning measuring, place wedges under any bowls that will be considered in the count that look as if they could fall over. It is important that they do not fall until the measuring is complete. Wedges can be made from the corks of empty wine bottles. Preparing wedges can be fun, particularly the drinking!

There are two types of measurement devices in general use. String measures are generally preferred in competitive play, but some players regret this trend because it is far easier to cheat with a string measure than with a metal tape. Make sure that the distance measured between the jack and the bowl is the shortest possible. This means that the measure must be placed in a dead straight line, and that the tip of the tape touches the bowl at the point closest to the jack. A player can cheat at this stage by measuring the two bowls at different points, such that one of them is measured too low, or to one side (or see above wrt misaligning the tape case). It only takes a millimeter of difference to change which bowl is closer, and a cheating player can find that millimeter very easily! When you are not the measurer, be a careful observer. If it is crucial, ask to perform the measurement again yourself.

It is sometimes necessary to repeat the measuring procedure, and the other vice may wish to check the result for himself/herself. The two players must always agree on the result, which is usually signaled by the conceding player pushing away the opposing bowl that is closer, followed by the winning side picking up the jack.

Calipers can be used when the bowl and jack are too close to get the measuring device between the bowls. Good calipers have a screw adjustment and can be purchased from any specialty bowls shop online, such as Shotbowl.

http://www.shotbowl.co.uk/Calipers.aspx

With calipers, try not to get the measure too accurate. Nine times out of ten, you don't need to touch both objects. You are just trying, using the calipers, to make obvious any difference between the two gaps. This can be done while still avoiding contact of the calipers with the jack. Always use the bowl that is heavier as your stable object.  You can run one leg of the caliper down the bowl safely without it moving, but the jack should not be touched.

Most standard string or tape measurement tools include some form of calipers, but these are very crude and can lead to trouble. A referee probably has the more precise screw calipers. Calipers require practice to use properly. Firstly, place them below the gap between the bowl and the jack. Let the back of the caliper rest near or on the ground and raise the points upwards. Withdraw the caliper away from the bowls and jack to make adjustments. You should never make adjustments while the calipers are still resting between the bowl and the jack.

For even closer measurements when two competing bowls both seem in contact with the jack, to determine whether both are actually resting on the jack, you can take a dollar bill or any smooth sheet of paper and try to slide it, in turn, between each bowl and the jack. If the paper moves easily between the jack and bowl, they are not resting on each other. If it will not slide easily, that bowl and the jack are touching.

If one player is measuring and moves the jack and/or the bowl the opposite number must be the one restoring that bowl or jack. There is little you can do to prevent him/her from restoring it closer than it was (in your opinion). For this reason, some folks always ask the opponent to do the measuring. Others always ask the umpire, marker, or some neutral person. 

When using a string or tape measure, it is not a bad idea to never actually touch the jack but be about a half mm off, because it’s far easier to accidentally move the jack than the bowl. Also, a player should not place a wedge against the jack because if the jack has moved, the opponent can reposition it. Remember, the idea of measuring is to be able to see the difference between the two lengths rather than putting a number on those lengths themselves. If you measure both distances holding the measure about a half mm from the jack, but not touching, and you still cannot decide, call the umpire or someone neutral to measure.

It can happen, even when everything is legitimate, that no decision can be reached, and the bowls in question are declared to be exactly the same distance from the jack. If the measure is for second (etc) bowl, it is not counted in the score. If the measure was for the shot bowl, neither side is allowed to score; the end is counted as having been played (i.e., it is not a dead end), but no score is recorded. In other jurisdictions, each side in this situation receives one point, and the end is counted. In continuing on with the match, the side that had led off during the end will continue to lead for the next one.

If the measurer touches the jack, which wobbles, and the other vice says “my shot”. You can say, “No, you put it back and we’ll remeasure.” Whether it is the bowl or the jack that is moved, don’t just let your opponent claim anything. Get him or her to re-position the jack. At least that way, you have a half chance of them getting it back in the correct spot. 

If you are playing singles, you can ask the marker for assistance either before or after you've tried to measure. (Don't forget the marker must not push out a shot bowl; he can only point to what, in his opinion, are shots, leaving the option for an umpire to be called.)

Measuring for yourselves first before calling outside help seems like the common-sense approach. If you can reach an agreement, then no one else needs to be disturbed. If the skips agree to ask another uninvolved player, that person becomes de facto the umpire. Once you call and agree on a third party to measure,  that decision is final. No objection is valid, and any objection is unsportsmanlike. You cannot get any other decision. Once an umpire or neutral party is measuring, it is good etiquette to leave the head and not watch. Indeed, there is no point in watching. Even if there is a grievous error against you, you will just upset yourself, and nothing can be done. 

Only an umpire should resort to wedging the jack! Even so, it is not recommended by official lawn bowling associations unless especially difficult conditions prevail, such as very high winds or a jack at risk at the edge of the ditch.

Remember Rule 40.5 from the Crystal Lawn Bowling Rules. When measuring between a jack in the ditch and a bowl on the green or a jack on the green and a bowl in the ditch, the measurement should be carried out using a flexible or string measure whenever possible.

Make the fewest measurements possible for determining the score in an end. In most dispositions of the head, counting is simple. Even where a measurement is needed, it is most often only between two bowls; however, more complicated situations can arise. To avoid becoming confused and to use the measuring tape as little as is necessary to establish the score, the following rules are useful.

1.       Decide which bowl is shot. This will involve measuring one distance between a candidate and the jack and comparing it to the distances for other shot candidates. This is done by choosing the shorter distance among the first two and comparing it with that of the next candidate, and so on.

2.       Place the shot bowl on a towel to indicate that it is measured and will count.

3.       Remove any other undisputed counting bowls of the same team that have the shot bowl by placing them on the cloth.

4.       Find the closest bowl belonging to the team that did not have the shot bowl. If several bowls might be the closest bowl belonging to the team that does not hold the shot, measure among these contending bowls to find out which is the closest.

5.       Using this measurement, find any other bowls belonging to the team holding shot that are closer than this measurement and place each of these bowls on the towel.

6.       Count the bowls on the towel. This is the score for the team that had shot.

I will illustrate this with some examples.

Example #1

Bowls 1, 2, and 3 are undisputed counters for the blue team. Place them on the towel. Measure 4 and compare it with 5. Choose the closest. If it is 4, then compare 4 with 6. If it is 5 that is closer, measure 5 and compare it with 6. Whichever of 4, 5, or 6 is the closest, take that measure and compare it in turn with 7, 8, 9, and then 10. Each of 7, 8, 9, and 10 that is closer than the best of 4, 5, and 6 is placed on the towel. The number of bowls on the towel is the correct score for the blue team.

Example #2

The blue team has shot indisputably. Place bowl 1 on the towel. Measure 2 and compare with 3. If the green 2 is closer than 3, the blue team scores 1. If the blue 3 is closer than 2. Place bowl 3 on the towel. The next closest bowl is 2. The blue team scores the two bowls on the towel.     

Example #3

The green team has three undisputed closer bowls. Place these on the towel.

Measure among 4, 7, 8, 9, and 10 to find which is the closest blue bowl among them. Compare the shortest of these measurements against 5. If 5 is closer, place 5 on the towel. Compare it now with 6. If 6 is closer, place 6 on the towel. Count the bowls on the towel. This is the score for the green team.

Further information about measuring can be found at https://greenbowler.blogspot.com/2021/04/measuring-in-close-disputed-ends-at.html