That Very Significant Last Three Meters of Jack Length at Lawn Bowls

 

Just because your lawn bowling opponent(s) can successfully bowl to a jack twenty-seven meters from the mat doesn’t mean at 30 meters the same success will persist. It is that last little stretch in length that so often makes the difference.

 

Even if you are worried that you might deliver the jack into the forward ditch, it shouldn’t deter you from trying to deliver a really long jack, if you have reason to believe that that would benefit your side. Even if you do lose the jack occasionally in the front ditch and give away the mat and jack length to the other side, isn’t it better to have an authentic long jack some of the time if that is what you think would provide an advantage?

The other day I was leading for my side in a triples match where the opposing skip bowled with one knee on the mat. This meant that he was bowling with arm strength alone…..there was no possible contribution from body momentum because he could not step forward. He was able to bowl fairly well to 27 meter jacks but when the length went to 30 meters he was either erratic or three meters short. This provided the tactical advantage to win the match, even though I delivered the jack into the front ditch twice and lost the mat advantage those times. When I did succeed in placing the longer jack we were able to score several multi-point ends.

Messing Up with the Jack at Lawn Bowls

 

In a sixteen-end triples match recently, the opposing lead bowler four times delivered the jack out of bounds and once put it into the forward ditch. Although apparently he didn’t think much of it, his team was trying to play long jacks while our side wanted short ones. These errors led substantially to our win and their defeat.

Too many casual bowlers just chuck the jack down the rink when it should be delivered with exactly the same delivery motion as a bowl. The privilege to deliver the jack and almost immediately follow it with the first bowl of the end provides a lead with an enormous assist in getting the correct weight from their very first bowl.

It is shocking how many beginner and even more experienced players can deliver a bowl reasonably well but frequently mess up delivering the jack.

Perhaps coaches should begin by teaching the delivery with that small white ball and only when the correct form is mastered move on to rolling a bowl with bias.

The Forgiving Side at Lawn Bowls

 

Bowling in a particular direction on a particular lawn bowling rink may have a more forgiving and less forgiving side. This will not be visible.

If a portion of the path that a lawn bowl takes from mat to jack has a slightly concave (center lower than sides) curvature, even though this is undetectable to the eye, the effect will be to correct a delivery that is slightly miss-delivered. Such a side, whether it be backhand or forehand, is said to be ‘forgiving’. Conversely, if a portion of the path that a lawn bowl takes from mat to jack is convex (center higher than sides), this will amplify any miss-delivery and send the bowl further from its intended target. Such a hand is called ‘unforgiving’. The most frequently observed consequence of an ‘unforgiving’ hand is the failure of a bowl to come back toward the center of the rink as it slows. We say, “The bowl hangs out”. We mean the bowl can’t get back because it is on the wrong side of a ridge in the rink. Ridge is just another name for a convex surface!

Whether a rink has ‘forgiving’ or ‘unforgiving’ characteristics doesn’t matter in most instances. Both your team and your opponents usually face identical challenges. But what if your side and the opposition end up repeatedly bowling on opposite sides of the rink and your opponents are consistently getting closer to the jack. They may be simply more skilled— well, not much can be done about that! But the other possibility is that they are bowling on the more ‘forgiving’ hand of that rink.

When that might be the case, you need to switch to match the hand on which they are bowling. It is remarkable how often this is ignored. Today, for example, bowling at Valverde LBC against a visiting touring team from England, the two leads bowled 18 ends with each playing his own side doggedly, even though it seemed apparent that the side one opponent was choosing was punishing the slightest deviation in delivery.

The rules of bowls require that the team that won the previous end must bowl first in the next end. So if the player you are paired against must bowl first, you can bowl the same side and the same line. Follow him down! Beat his bowl! Don’t just stubbornly struggle when the green may be conspiring against you. 

Bowling to a Displaced Jack Near the Boundary at Lawn Bowls

 When the jack gets significantly displaced towards one of the boundary lines and you and the opposing skip each have a single bowl remaining, a special consideration applies. Tactically, it matters who sits shot and how many points are at issue.

What sets this situation apart is:

There is an increased chance that any upcoming delivery will finish out of bounds and become a dead bowl.

With any delivery to a seriously displaced jack, a bowl directed towards it is likely to pass over less disturbed fresh grass where the required bias and weight will be unknown.

If your opponent must bowl before you, you need to watch especially carefully the line taken over any of this fresh green. Your advantage is that you can learn a lot from your opponent’s bowl.

If you must bowl before your opponent, it matters greatly who is sitting shot. If your side has the best bowl already, then the most you can lose is a single point (unless that shot bowl gets removed). Although delivering your bowl inside-out is most often at least partially blocked by bowls around the jack’s previous location, there is the advantage that such delivery will not be teaching your opponent the correct line for his/her last bowl.

If you are already down in the head you probably have to risk bowling outside-in and showing your opponent the line because you need to save points by beating the bowls that are already waiting to be counted against you.

Definitions

Outside-in describes the path of a bowling delivery that starts aimed outside the boundary of the rink and curves back towards the center of the rink.

Inside-out describes the path of a bowling delivery that starts aimed closer to the center of the rink and curves out towards the boundary. 

 

Bringing the Mat Forward to the Hog Line to Confidently Deliver a Very Short Jack Length

 

An indoor World Pairs 2022 match at Potters, illustrated a point I have consistently urged in this Greenbowler blog. 

The most dependable way to get the shortest jack length is to bring the mat forward to the hog line and then bowl the jack just past the forward T. In a match that Andersen/Burnett played against Foster /Marshall, Foster, who was leading, first tried to deliver a short jack with the mat back (at 34:54 minutes) and lost the jack when it was too short whereupon the opponents continued playing full-length jacks to easily win the first set. 

In the second set, Foster got the jack back, and he took the mat forward to the hog line and easily delivered this jack past the forward T (at 49:55 minutes) whereupon it was spotted at exactly 23 meters.  Foster and Marshall, using this length change, got a good lead and won the second set to force a tiebreaker.

Bringing the mat forward to play a short jack length is even more of a no-brainer on the portable rink because there are 3.5 meters from the T to the ditch instead of the regulation distance of only 2.0 meters! It is equally a no-brainer outdoors in Canada where there can be a distinct lip at the edge of some greens that reduces the likelihood of ditching the jack.

When playing on such a rink, before the match commences, go and inspect the edges of both ditches. There may be a bigger lip in one area as opposed to the remainder of the edges. 

When employing this strategy your lead should deliver the jack toward that area.

If you are playing in Canada and would be content with a 23 meter jack length, place the mat  2 meters short of the first hog line and deliver the jack from there. You will have 2 meters leeway to be short and 2 meters leeway to be long!

Using a Different Order of Play in Lawn Bowling Triples

 

I have always felt that on a triples team, I would like the second most skillful bowler to deliver the jack and the lead bowls. A skip has considerable latitude to reassign the duties of the bowlers on his team to achieve this, although it is rarely exercised.

 

Who must rake the bowls is not specified in the Laws of the Sport of Bowls. This job can be assigned by the skip to his vice. According to Rule 40.2.1 “...the third can (my italics) measure any and all disputed shots.” Since the word can is used, the skip can assign this job to his lead if he chooses. “[A] player who is controlling play” is referred to in Rule 12.1.3 but that player is not designated as a person who occupies a particular position in the order of play. It follows that a skip could assign the lead to control play at any time but in particular when the skip goes to the mat.

It is thus possible for a skip to have his most experienced colleague place the mat, deliver the jack, deliver the first three bowls for the side, control play when the skip is bowling, and measure to determine the score; while leaving the less skilled or less experienced bowler to rake the bowls and deliver the fourth, fifth and sixth bowls for the side!

There are several less obvious advantages to this arrangement. Since the lead is more experienced than the vice in this situation, this experience can be used to determine which is the more playable side of the rink and communicate this to the less experienced colleague. Another fact that can be passed on is whether a particular side is narrower or wider than normal.

This order of play gives the better of the first two bowlers on the team the least hindered approach to the jack and the chance to get a close bowl early to put pressure on the opposition. Since your second best bowler delivers the jack there is much better control of jack length for the team’s strategy and the deliverer of the jack has a better feel for the length of the end. The lead can remind a less experienced colleague that the jack is short, medium, or long and whether the green is fast or slow. 

There are disadvantages. If this newly selected lead fails to get close bowls, it becomes more likely than before for the side to be seriously down by the time the skip comes to the mat. Because your weakest bowler is now bowling second (s)he may face a less open head. The chance of playing a successful running shot is reduced.

The aforementioned order of play is particularly attractive for a team that comprises an experienced pairs team joined by a less experienced bowler. This is even more appealing if the experienced pair has a set of well-developed hand signals for communicating between head and mat. It might also appear to appeal to a mens’ pairs team augmented with a female in order to qualify for mixed triples. However, it is tactically important that the lead would be well advised to deliver jack lengths and choose mat positions that optimize the play of the less experienced, second player.

Bowls Tactics: When you are Ahead in the Last End but Have the Mat

Fall 2020 Willowdale LBC

 

Introduction

Lawn bowls is a game where consistency is rewarded. It is not how close a particular single delivery is to the jack; it is how often your bowls finish close to the jack. Throughout most of a match, no-one should fret if an opponent builds up a big lead beating your own close deliveries. So long as your side consistently bowls well, the law of averages should be trusted to even out the difference.

When the final ends come around, however, such faith is no longer warranted. To win the match the team that is behind must act in ways that might be imprudent any other time and the team that is leading must be aware of this and take appropriate counter-measures.

The more shots a side is behind, the sooner these more daring tactics need to be invoked. As the side in the lead, remember that in this situation it is the opponents that must take lower-percentage riskier shots to catch up. 

The Specific Tactical Problem

The specific tactical problem for the side still ahead but with the mat is that your opponent(s) will have the final bowl of this last end. To be secure your side will need to have in the head at least two bowls that will reduce the other side's potential count to less than is necessary to win the match. If you do not have these two bowls, the opposing skip can potentially knock your single protector out of the head and may score enough to gain a multiple and perhaps sufficient to win the match. Furthermore, these two bowls must be disposed far enough apart that they cannot be removed together by this last shot. Moreover, though less dangerous, all your bowls should not be disposed such that this last opposition bowl can trail the jack to a position where your opponent would score sufficient shots to win. In particular, your opponent should be prevented from ditching the jack with that last bowl and scoring sufficient points to win.

Now, trailing the jack is much harder than knocking out a single bowl so getting two bowls into the head is much more important than protecting against a trail. So, when both dangers threaten, protect by placing the two bowls in the head! 

The Psychological Problem

Since your side won the last end (that is why you have the mat) in one way the psychological pressure will not be as severe as in the end just finished. Your side is at least one point further ahead and the opposition has one-half as many ends to catch up. Nevertheless, your advantage may be as narrow as a single point. If you are not playing singles but are the skip of a team, you should meet with your team before the end begins. This is your right— you have possession of the mat—don’t let your opponents rush you.

 

Nervous Inexperienced Lead

If your lead is nervous, inexperienced, or both, encourage him/her to try to deliver a jack of a length that feels most comfortable. This is usually the lead’s natural length. Then, explain that you will help in setting the mat so that when the jack gets delivered about that length it will end up about 1 meter short of the forward T. Then explain that for that first bowl, you will indicate with your shoe a point about 1 meter behind the jack and your lead should visualize getting the bowl as close as possible to your shoe. Without actually warning your lead not to be short you are asking him/her to aim for this shoe target behind the jack.

If you are playing in an intra-club tournament and your lead has hardly ever competed, do none of these things. Rather, with the mat where it is most commonly placed, call for a jack at exactly the same length as in the last end. Be as relaxed and casual as possible.

 

Under all circumstances, no matter how that first delivery goes, you, as skip, should call for the next delivery on the same hand just adjusting weight as necessary and continuing to reach to your shoe. Do not, except for the most extraordinary circumstances, ask your lead to change hands for the second bowl. Also, if your lead delivers a short first bowl do not show any irritation or frustration, just encourage an appropriate adjustment. At this point, your outward demeanor is as important as your lead’s skill.

Influence of the Rules of Play

What to do with mat and jack, when you are ahead in the last end and have the mat, can depend upon the rules in play.

Closed End 

According to the rules that formerly were in force in Ontario Canada, for example, all ends were closed with an allowance that each team could kill one end in the match after which the next dead end caused by that team counted as an end played with one point awarded to the non-offending side. In this situation, it matters strategically whether your opponent(s) have already killed an end before this final end. If they have, you do not need to worry about a kill since it would only increase your lead. On the other hand, if they still retain the right to kill an end, you need to preferably place the jack close to the front ditch making it more difficult for the jack to be driven out of bounds. If your preference is a short or medium jack, this can still be achieved by moving the mat up the rink so that the jack can still be kept near the forward ditch while the jack length is as you prefer.

 
Last End Open

When the last end is open, an opponent can burn ends that are not favorable without limit. Because of this, your side should prefer a long jack in most circumstances.

 The mat should be at the T line and the jack should be rolled full length. This maximizes the difficulty of burning the end. It is harder to strike the jack the further it is along the rink. At the same time, the closer it is to the front ditch the more likely it is to enter the ditch and be still in play rather than to shoot off at an oblique angle and exit the side boundaries.  Since you are defending a lead, keep count of how many points the other side would rack up if they trailed the jack into the ditch. Matching bowls is a good strategy  in this tactical position.

Re-Spotting (No burnt ends)

With re-spotting in effect, it is important to deliver the jack as close as possible to the re-spot location. The more possibilities there are to score, the harder it is to defend. The most common re-spot position is two meters from the ditch on the centerline. The best position for defense is to have the jack centered three meters from the ditch. So that if you can place your first bowl 1 meter behind the jack it will be sitting on the respotting position. This way you combine the merits of finishing behind the jack and covering the respotting position. You arrange for your preferred length by moving the mat up the rink. It should be set to the lead’s natural distance. The lead should try to place his first bowl one meter behind the jack on the re-spot position. It is particularly important not to be short. The more bowls behind the jack, the better the defense prospects. The first person to get a bowl close to the jack will have tremendously improved prospects. 

Bowls Tactics: When you are Behind in the Last End but Have the Mat

 

Introduction

Lawn bowls is a game where consistency is rewarded. It is not how close a particular bowl is to the jack; it is how often your bowls are close to the jack. Throughout most of a match no-one should fret if an opponent builds up a big lead beating your own close deliveries. As long as your side maintains a consistency of excellent bowling, the law of averages can be counted on to even out the difference.

When the final ends come around, however, such complacency is no longer warranted. To win the match the team that is behind must act in ways that would be inadvisable tactics any other time in the match and the team that is leading must be aware of this and take appropriate counter-measures.

The further a side is behind, the sooner these strategies need to be invoked. In a group of blog articles I am considering these last-end situations.

 

You are Behind in the Last End but Have the Mat

You have just won the penultimate end of your match; but, you are still behind. They have the last bowl. Your side gets to place the mat and roll the jack. Very few skips make good use of these choices. It is all you have to work with. You want to choose the conditions that make their side as uncomfortable as possible relative to your side. You need to squeeze out every particle of advantage from the situation.

You have won the end just finished. If it is obvious from the previous ends what to do now, just do it. If it is not obvious how to proceed, choose what is radically different. This may throw off your side even more than your opponents but remember: you want an end that scores a multiple and a mat position and length that makes both sides uncomfortable is most likely to do that. You must just hope that your side is the side least upset!

A theoretically good choice, if you have nothing else to go on is to deliver a medium jack from partway up the green. The logic is this. It will be harder for the other side to properly estimate the jack length but because your side has delivered the jack your lead bowler will have a better initial  ’feel’ for the correct length. You do not want a long jack because you might need to try to ‘kill’ the end (if the rules allow) and the closer the jack is to the front ditch the less likely you can drive it out of bounds rather than just putting it in the ditch. Alternately (If you are playing with re-spotting) you do not want the jack to be on the forward T because you might need the extra choices arising from re-spotting to a distinctly different position that would provide increased possibilities for the multiple you seek.  

As you can see, strategically, it is significant whether the last end is open or closed. That is— whether the end can be killed and replayed, or the jack must instead be re-spotted if it is driven out of bounds. It is advantageous to the trailing team if killing the end is allowed. If your side has delivered a very close bowl that also widens the head, your opponents will be assessing the possible benefit from attempting a ‘kill’. This is what you want them to be forced to attempt because if they miss, that bowl of theirs cannot score. 

Finally, of course, it is important by how many shots are you trailing? To be trailing by even a single shot when the opponents also have last bowl is a considerable disadvantage. No matter how badly the end develops for them, they will have that final chance to turn it around. You can do nothing about their last bowl. There is no rejoinder.

Since they do have last bowl, the best situation you can aim for is to be sitting match in hand when the opposing skip comes to make that final delivery.  This will apply psychological pressure. You need to make him/her choke!  You want to make that shot as difficult as possible.

Bowls Tactics: When You are Behind in the Last End and Don't have the Mat

Fall 2020 Willowdale LBC

 

Introduction

Lawn bowls is a game where consistency is rewarded. It is not like the high jump in track and field where setting records is important. It is not how close one particular bowl is to the jack; it is how often your bowls end up close to the jack. Throughout most of a match, no-one should fret if an opponent builds up a big lead so long as they are beating your own close deliveries. As long as your side maintains a consistency of excellent bowling, the law of averages can be counted on to even out the difference.

When the final ends come around, however, such peace of mind is no longer warranted. To win the match the team that is behind may need to act in a way that would be inadvisable tactics any other time in the match and the team that is leading must be aware of this and take appropriate counter-measures.

The further a side is behind, the sooner these strategies need to be invoked. In a group of blog articles, I will consider these last-end situations. 

You are Behind in the Last End and Don’t Have the Mat

The situation is that you have just lost the penultimate end of your match, and you are behind. There is a bright side- you will have the last bowl in this the last end! This is a very palpable advantage. So much so that you might have considered accepting down 1 in the previous end just to get it! In fact, the team with the last bowl under nearly all circumstances has a significantly better likelihood of scoring at least +1 on the end. 

The opposition has the mat and has the privilege of determining both the mat location and jack length; however, very few skips make good use of these choices. Most likely they will go with whatever length they had when they just scored or the longest jack possible. These are the commonest choices although not necessarily the smartest.

Strategically, whether the last end is open or closed has some importance. That is, whether the end can be killed and replayed, or whether the jack is instead re-spotted if it is driven out of bounds. It is advantageous to you, the trailing team, if killing the end is allowed. If at any point in the end, the opponents deliver a very close bowl that also widens the head, your side should assess its potential usefulness for attempting a ‘kill’.

In the final end, it becomes increasingly important to consider the situation from the perspective of the opposing side. Have they already won the previous round in the tournament? Are their points-for sufficient to keep them in contention to win the tournament? …or to be in-the-money? 

If it is a tournament you may have a better chance to overcome a lead if your opposition has not lost any preceding match. This may be contra-intuitive but when your opponents have a chance to win the entire tournament if they both win all their games and have a large shots-for total they may be even more interested in trying for a big final end themselves than defending against your bowls. You could even comment to their side, in a friendly way, “Yu-know, if you get a multiple in this end you will have a stab at winning the entire tournament.” This gives you in turn a greater chance to score a multiple. Your best chance to score big occurs when they try for a big end! On the other hand, a team that has already lost once in a tournament will be more interested in just defeating you, even if only narrowly. Such a team is more likely to try to match bowls with your side in a last end, blocking a big end for anyone. 

Your opponent(s) must deliver the first bowl of the end and you will get to see that result before you deliver your first bowl. You are unlikely to score more than a single unless your opponents at some point make some sort of mistake. It is your job to apply enough pressure to increase that likelihood. Fortunately, It is much easier to apply pressure in the last end, even while trailing, than at any other time in the match! To illustrate with an example, during most of a match having two of your bowls in the same catching position a meter behind the jack would not much worry an opponent (trailing the jack is a low probability event), but in the last end, the possibility of such a successful low-percentage shot will oppress opponents’ minds. It is not the unlikeliness of your success that dominates their thinking but the clear visualization of its possibility! When an opponent can visualize his own dramatic loss, that opponent will feel pressure.

 

If the opposing side’s first bowl finishes short of the jack, they increase the pressure on themselves. This is a very encouraging outcome for your side. It is even more encouraging if that bowl also finishes blocking their line on that side of the rink. Your opponent can now easily visualize a second bowl of theirs hitting that first one so that both end up short. Thus do such short bowls increase the pressure for that next delivery. “Should I change hands?” is the thought bedeviling their minds. 

When your opponent’s first bowl is short, your side’s first bowl must be behind the jack, even if that means it finishes between 1 and 2 meters behind. Any bowl behind the jack will increase the pressure. Responding with a short bowl will relieve it. When down, all of your bowls need to be up! None of your bowls should be short! Your best chance for a big, winning end occurs when your side’s bowls are all behind the jack and some of the opposition bowls fall short.

No matter where the opponent’s opening bowl finishes you must anticipate that your bowls will need to be grouped together somewhere behind the jack if you are to score a multiple. 

You do not need to protect against the opposition scoring a big end; if they score at all you lose the match. An advantageous head development is one where they group their bowls to one side of the jack and yours are on the other. Then, towards whichever side the jack gets diverted, that side benefits.  If luck favors your side, you could easily score enough to win the match. If not— well, you were heading towards a loss anyway!

The situation you trying to realize is for the other side to have no more than one bowl close in the head when you go to the mat for your last bowl. Then you will at least have the opportunity to remove that single bowl and stay for your multiple.

Bowls Tactics: When You are Ahead in the Last End and Don't have the Mat

 

Introduction

Lawn bowls is a game where consistency is rewarded. It is not how close a single delivery is to the jack; it is how often your bowls finish close to the jack. Throughout most of a match no-one should fret if an opponent builds up a big lead beating your own close deliveries. So long as your side maintains consistently bowls well, the law of averages should be trusted to even out the difference.

When the final ends come around, however, such faith is no longer warranted. To win the match the team that is behind must act in ways that might be imprudent any other time in the match and the team that is leading must be aware of this and take appropriate counter-measures.

The more shots a side is behind, the sooner these more daring tactics need to be invoked.

You are Ahead in the Last End and Don’t Have the Mat

If the situation is that you have just lost the penultimate end of your match; but, you are still ahead; well, there is a bright side- you will have the last bowl in this, the last end! This is a very palpable advantage. So much so that you might have accepting down 1 in the previous end just to get it! The team with the last bowl has the better opportunity to score. 

The opposition has the mat and has the privilege of determining both mat location and jack length; however, very few skips make good use of these choices. Most likely they will go with either whatever length they just scored with or the longest jack possible. These are the commonest choices although not necessarily the smartest.

Strategically, it is significant whether the last end is open or closed. That is— whether the end can be killed and replayed, or the jack must instead be re-spotted if it is driven out of bounds. It is advantageous to the trailing team if killing the end is allowed. If your side at any point delivers a very close bowl that also widens the head, your opponents will be assessing the possible benefit from attempting a ‘kill’.

It is also strategically important whether the tournament rules require a tied game to be settled in some fashion- such as playing an extra end. If an extra end is specified, then a further consideration is what determines who gets the last bowl?

Finally, of course, it is of very considerable importance how many shots you are leading by?! To be leading even by a single shot when your side also has the last bowl is a considerable advantage. No matter how badly the end develops you will have that final chance to turn it around. The other side can do nothing about your last bowl. There is no rejoinder. Even if things continue to go badly if you can hold them to a single shot, you will be tied and if ties must be broken you will still have a chance to win!

If your side is ahead by three or more bowls, you or your skip will probably call for you to match bowls with your opposite number so long as your opponent’s bowl is behind the jack. Preferably, your bowl will still finish shot. The other side will be trying to group their bowls behind the jack and then trail the jack towards this grouping. Your side will want to place bowls in among their grouping positioned preferably so your bowl is are also closest to the jack to catch any trailed jack and to apply maximum pressure. 

Although it is always preferable to end up behind the jack, your side does not need to share this same level of fear as your opponents must. Perhaps almost as important is getting your bowls close to the center line. Then even if slightly short a bowl will reduce the chance for the opposition to hit the jack and, if within the rules, ’kill’ the end.

Because your side has the last bowl it does not have to protect in advance against the most common trick for the other side to get a big last end. That trick is to bowl everything long and then with their last bowl try to push the jack into the ditch. So long as you are comfortable bowling long with your last bowl, you are not in danger. If they fail to hit the jack you will earn a big score!

In the final end, it becomes of enhanced importance to consider the situation from the perspective of the opposing side. Have they already won the previous rounds in the tournament? Are their points-for sufficient to keep them in contention to win a prize? If the answers are yes to both these questions, they may take bigger risks to make up the score and thereby present you with the chance to be handed a big end yourselves.

When your side is ahead it is the other side that needs to be daring. You do not need to strain for more points- there is a good chance you will be handed them!

Since you have last bowl, the best situation your opponents can aim for is to be sitting match-in-hand when you come to make your final delivery.  This will put pressure on you. Your goal is to be positioned so that you can refuse your last bowl. 

Playing or Not Playing your Last Bowl at Lawn Bowls

Last Bowl in the End

When your side has the last bowl there may be more risk playing into the head than potential benefit. The Laws of Bowls permit you to forgo that delivery and count the end as it stands.

However, at least when playing on outdoor greens which may not be perfectly flat, You should always use that last unnecessary bowl to explore some unused part of the green.

The most frequent situation will be when you have only knowledge of one side of the rink. For example, early in a match, you may have only bowled forehand. Given last bowl in a head you do not wish to change and where the best option incurs substantial risk to your advantage, you should experiment to learn the draw on the unfamiliar backhand side. Since you most definitely don’t want to disturb the head, you should bowl long if the end is a short one and vice versa.

Another possible way to use your extra bowl, is to target one edge of the rink. This will give you advanced knowledge of the amount of grass to take when the jack is displaced toward that boundary later in the contest. At the same time you will not be putting the present head situation in danger.

Last Bowl for Your Side

When you have the penultimate bowl, you may still not want to risk disturbing the head even though you know your opposition skip will have one more try to change the outcome. Whether you need to bowl into the head depends upon how many other possible counting bowls you have. If your side has only a single bowl protecting against a large score by the opposition, usually the best choice is to try to deliver another counter. This should be balanced by assessing how exposed your best bowl is to attack.

If after all these considerations, you still feel that you should not risk interfering with the head you can choose to:

Bowl to a respot position if you are playing ‘no dead ends’.

Place the ‘backest bowl’ on the side of the rink where a displaced jack is most likely to go.

On a slow green, place a 14-meter blocker  to protect against a draw or run-through shot if only one side of the rink remains playable (one cannot place a 14-meter blocker on a fast green because the blocker would be on another rink)

On a fast green, place a blocker 2-3 meters short of the head on the center line to protect against a drive (on a slow green it is difficult to protect against both forehand and backhand drives because both paths will entail curvature) 

In the situation where you do not wish to disturb the head but you need your last bowl to be ‘in the count’ you need to be increasingly aware that your bowl must finish behind the head but not be narrow.

Illustrating the Importance of Controlling the Mat

 

The importance of control of the mat so that one can dictate jack length is sometimes not emphasized enough. An entertaining Youtube video of a match between Katelyn Inch and Chloe Stewart forcefully reminds us of that principle.  The match exhibits massive swings correlating with the choice of the mat length. 

The match has another teaching at the 2:46:30 minute mark. Chloe has a perfect position with counting bowls immediately in front of and immediately behind the jack but she accidentally disturbs the head while trying to place her next delivery behind the head. The jack becomes exposed and Katelyn is able to take advantage. A short blocking shot that would force Katelyn either to avoid it when driving at the head or change hands for a run-through shot would have been better tactics and wouldn’t risk disturbing the head.

The Ten Top Greenbowler Lawn Bowling Blogs

Ryan Bester at Broadbeach

 

I've been posting The Greenbowler Blog for seven years. Although, as the editor, I can see which of my 228 posts have been more popular this information is not readily available to readers although posts can be selected by keywords using the search tool in the right-hand column of each blog article. So below, I list, each with its own link, my 10 most popular blog articles of all time. If this proves useful and there is a demand for it, I will supply links for numbers 11-20 later.

1. The Secret to Controlled Weight

2. Strategy and Tactics at Bowls

3. Lawn Bowling from the Shooters Stance

4. Measuring at Bowls

5. Jack or Bowl: Reading the Head

6. Strategy of Leads at Pairs

7. Controlled Weight

8. Choosing your Correct Bias for Bowls

9. Delivering Bowls with a Cocked Wrist

10. Henselite Supergrip Championship Bowls

Tactical Shots at Lawn Bowls

 

Turramurra LBC

There are four distinguishable tactical shots in lawn bowls. The draw shot has as its target its final ending place.… that is, the shot is successful if your bowl finishes precisely where you are aiming it to go. Both the yard-on shot and the running shot,  in contrast, are successful if they don’t reach the spot the bowler is aiming for. Their purpose is to hit something in the head as they pass through it toward their target destination. The drive is distinguished in that if it fails to hit its target it will always finish in the ditch or out of bounds.

The Draw Shot

A Draw Shot is the most frequent shot and it is really what the game is all about. For this shot, the player attempts to play with the exact weight and line required to finish closest to the jack.  Less frequent tactics may require drawing close to some other location on the rink often to protect against the jack being subsequently displaced backward or to block the path opponents may use to get bowls into the head. Mastering this shot is considered to be the most essential in all bowls.

 The Yard On Shot

The "Yard On" shot is a bowl that is played with enough weight to carry it, if unobstructed, a yard or two past the target but the line that is supposed to be taken causes it to pass through the head near the jack. The objective of this shot is usually to drag the jack away from opposing bowls, hopefully towards your own, or to push a bowl out of the "head" and take its place. In Scotland, this is often referred to as a "chop and lie" shot. The shot is more often successful on heavier greens where bowls express less of their bias. With ‘swingy’ bowls on a fast surface, the yard-on shot that misses its target often ends up well out of the head and is most often no longer a factor in play. 

The Running Shot or Ditch Length Shot

The Running Shot is one that uses more weight than the yard-on. The object of this shot is to remove the opponents’ bowls from the head, to move the jack to the ditch, or to seek some other result that requires the bowl to be played with weight. The difference between it and the drive is that the running shot has a greater chance of avoiding the ditch itself even if it misses its target. This is important when your side has no back bowls or when the jack is required to be respotted if the jack is driven out of bounds. This can be a difficult shot to play as the line (bias) required for hitting the target changes with different weights. The weight should be constant with the line adjusted to allow your bowl to pass through the head. The ditch length shot is less useful on fast greens because a bowl that misses the head is likely to finish out-of-bounds because of the greater curling of a bowl on a fast surface.

The Drive

The drive shot is a bowl that is played with the highest weight that one can muster without sacrificing accuracy of line. Striking the target, usually the head, with full force is the desired result. The tactical objective of this shot may be to completely remove the opponent's bowls from the head or from the rink or to drive the jack into the ditch or out of play. It is most often used when a player has at least several shots against him and they are mostly closer to the jack than he is likely able to draw. In this case, the object is to destroy the head by driving the jack out of the rink. When successful this results either in getting the end replayed (traditionally) or causing the jack to be repotted (recently) which may be advantageous. This can be a very effective and intimidating shot to have in your armory but many players have difficulty controlling their direction when concentrating their efforts on so much weight. With the respotting rule more frequently practiced today, less velocity and more accuracy are more likely to produce an advantage. When delivering the drive it is very important to release the bowl no more than six inches in advance of the forward foot since holding your bowl longer is likely to cause narrow bowling.