A Bold Lawn Bowling Strategy

A sports strategy is a plan that can be made before a sports competition begins. It is not determined by the fine details of a particular match situation. This latter is the business of tactics.

I propose that a team ( let us consider a pairs team ) decide that when it has possession of the mat during a match, it will place the mat at the closer hog line and deliver a jack that gets centred on the forward T. 

The end is played tactically from that point on. If the end is won, the same strategy is repeated in the next end. If the end is lost, the side attempts to recover the mat and restart its strategy. The strategy tries to force the opponents to play a game with a fixed minimum jack length and a dead bowl line 2 meters behind the jack.

The idea upon which the strategy is based is that there will be an advantage in playing a game the details of which your side has practiced much more than the opposition and which has some features distinctly different from the standard bowls contest.

To be successful in the execution, the lead must be accomplished at rolling the jack reproducibly 21-23 meters. This seems like a tall order, but it is a precise challenge that can be practiced by borrowing a box of 16 jacks from the clubhouse.

Why should this strategy work?

 

In Canada, the minimum jack length is 21 meters; in most other countries, the minimum distance is 23 meters. First, few other teams practice bowling either 21 or 23-meter ends from a mat at the hog line.

According to bowls.co.uk, “At the beginning of the first end, the mat is placed lengthwise on the centre line of the rink, the back edge to be four feet from the ditch.” I can find no official evidence for this purported rule. There is no such requirement in the Laws of Sport of Bowls, Crystal Mark 4. Consequently, this is no longer required. The lead in the first end can place the mat anywhere from T to the closest hog line. The strategy proposed can be applied from end 1, so if the toss is won, you can take the mat and move it forward!

What is so different about playing this short game?

The re-spot position is identical to the initial spot for the jack. Putting the jack cleanly out of bounds will get it returned to the position from which it came!

Knocking the jack out of bounds is extremely unlikely; unless given a sharply glancing blow, the jack will end up live in the ditch. 

The team using this strategy should have learned to deliver the more accurate running bowl (since this is a more accurate delivery than a drive, with the best chance of ditching the jack), and this shot also provides the best chance to drive an opposing shot bowl into the ditch, where it will be dead. 

If the jack makes it to the ditch, the area available for the opposition to draw their own shot bowl is only half as big as usual. This is because the available area is only a semicircle around the jack. When the jack is in the ditch, placing a shot bowl behind the jack is not available.

 It is almost guaranteed that some deliveries will finish in the ditch as dead bowls. If the opposition does manage to deliver the shot bowl, your side has available the running shot to cancel it.

The probability of a rebounding bowl is much greater, and a rebounding toucher is live: 17.2.3.

The probability of a jack rebounding onto the rink is much higher, and a rebounding jack is live: 21.1.

Many more dispositions of bowls near the jack will constitute a target for a running shot because the depth of the head can be no more than 2 meters, so the gaps between bowls, or between a bowl and the jack, will be effectively smaller. A running shot is more likely to hit something.

Paul Foster bowls all his deliveries with the form required to deliver a runner; no backswing and a big forward step. In a famous open singles match, he came from behind in the last two ends by moving the mat up to the hog line and delivering a minimum length jack. You can see this starting at about the 1:17:02 mark in the online video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VEGkkHgZ6o

Take the Full 30 Seconds

 

I was bowling in one of the district playdowns last week in Toronto, and sitting at the table next to me in the clubhouse, a coach from the Canadian National Bowls team was telling some competitors whom she was coaching to visualize the path of their contemplated delivery and not to deliver the bowl until this was clear in their minds.

This got me thinking: could a person improve performance simply by taking 25-30 seconds to prepare for each delivery?

 This would provide sufficient time for multiple visualizations that would move one’s gaze back and forth between a stare point (say at 3-5 meters in front of the mat) and the jack.

Doing this as part of a delivery routine would very likely dramatically improve proper concentration, and that would provide benefits to all the players with less than perfect discipline.

Bowling Into Danger: Ezra R. Wyeth

I wanted to write a blog article about 'bowling into danger' but in searching for what had already been written I found this article by Ezra R. Wyeth from 1966. It is my pleasure to reproduce it here where such good advice can be found more easily!  

https://www.bowlsusa.us/uploads/7/5/9/0/75903269/1966-02.pdf

I find two important differences between bowling in the U.S.A. and elsewhere, and they both amount to the same thing - an unbelievable waste of bowls by many of our players. The first is the use of the block and the second is the attempt to match a catcher. I have never consciously played a block and only in dire extremity have I tried the other-both for the same reasons. Firstly, they require more skill than I possess; secondly, there are usually easier and more productive shots available. If you will be patient for a while, I will try to explain about matching the catcher. 

Let me start with a head like this. 

Playing the forehand, the lead has drawn a jack-high bowl, slightly wide, six inches from the jack. His opponent has followed with a bowl a foot behind and to the left. It is a safe bet that in 99 cases out of 100, the player by choice ( or at the direction of his skip ) will change his hand. He does this for three reasons. He believes the jack will be shifted; he can anticipate the direction it will go; and lastly; he thinks he can draw to a spot on the green. If he is completely honest he would admit to himself that he has little right to believe any of these reasons. If, on the other hand, he is stubborn and refuses to face the facts he will just have to count the number of times during a game that his beliefs are proved true. 

Only a superman could do what hundreds of players try to do each time they play. For any player the choice is simple. Either he plays like a superman or he assumes human status and plays an easier shot. The thing to do in the situation described above is to play the shot his opponent must play. His opponent has the choice of three shots:

 

• draw the shot anywhere within a twelve-inch circle 
• play to reach the shot with enough strength to take its place or to turn in off it 
• try to trail the jack 

The second is by far the best shot to play as it offers a greater margin for error. Our player, therefore, tries to play just that shot-  and for about seven good reasons. 

Examine all the possible outcomes. If he is short he can draw a second shot in a semi-circle, 24 inches in diameter. If shorter, he can well finish on a line that appears to be in his opponent's draw. If he gets his objective, he will have two shots. If he manages to turn his own bowl in or to wick off it, he will have an excellent position. If he has the right weight, or slightly less, and misses his first bowl he can draw a shot in a position to the right or left of his opponent's bowl. 

If his weight is right and he trails the jack he may lose the shot. Even so, he still has two bowls close to the shot, and his chances of losing more than one shot are reduced. There are other possibilities. If he is heavy he can take his other bowl out or shift the jack, or he can have a bowl behind the jack. If you are one of the stubborn ones and feel that in this last paragraph, I have undermined my position, please remember that these things can and do happen if a player changes his hand. 

Before you dismiss everything I have said, let me offer the most important reason of all. One of the delights of playing lead or singles is that a player can usually play the better side of the rink. The greens we play on rarely draw the same on both sides and one side is often faster than the other. It is usually much easier to play either the wide side or the narrow side consistently. A change of side means a change of green and a change of pace with a consequent increase in the chance of error. If you want more convincing proof than my arguments, you'll find it on the green. Borrow two bowls and place them in the positions shown above and try all the shots you like. The results will amaze you. 

A Theory About the Lead’s Bowls Playing Lawn Bowls Triples

When the lead plays his bowls in a triples match at least 12 bowls are left to be played in every end. It cannot be guessed whether his team will need to be protective or aggressive. The skip and to a lesser extend the vice have indicators of how play is proceeding. What can the lead do to increase the value of those opening bowls?

I have an idea. The lead must try to create a head favourable to his side.

This is easier to do if his side has the mat but even bowling second there are superior and inferior contributions.

All three lead bowls should finish behind the jack. To increase the probability of this, the lead’s first bowl must be weighted to be intentionally long.

Since it is the plan to be consistently further behind the jack with this bowl and subsequently subtract weight to approach nearer the jack, this first bowl should be delivered so that, more likely than not, it will come across the centre line. Since the intent is to be intentionally long, the opportunity should not be wasted to possibly trail the jack!

The lead’s 2nd and 3rd bowls will be delivered with better information, both with respect to weight and line, than the first bowl. The first bowl is, in a sense, a ‘sighter’ bowl. It provides feedback about the rink conditions.

This is all that can be expected from the lead that does not possess the mat.

If one’s side does possess the mat, more is possible. It should be prearranged that the skip will decide on jack length: short, intermediate, or long, but the lead could be given authority to choose the mat position. If this permission is granted, the lead should choose the mat position so that whether a short, intermediate, or long jack is called for the jack will finish close to the forward T (2 meters from the front ditch).

Why do this? Because we have already decided the lead’s first bowl is going to be intentionally behind the jack and more likely than not, narrow, and if there is going to be a heightened chance that the jack will be trailed, the closer that trail takes the jack towards the front ditch, the more difficulty for the opposition.

If your side has possession of the mat and your skip calls for a short jack, where should you locate the mat? The answer is 2 meters behind the closest hog line, because from there you can try to roll the jack to the forward T, but even if it is 2 meters short of the T, it will still have traveled the requisite 21 meters (in Canada, 23 meters in some other countries). At the same time, you have 2 meters behind your target length before you are too long and fall into the ditch and give the jack away!

If an intermediate jack is requested, the mat position should be about 5 meters back from the closest hog line. If a long jack is called for, take the mat to the back T.

All this may be well and good, but sometimes you, as lead, will deliver a bowl short of the jack. If your line is still good and your bowl is only a little bit short, you may have a decent shot bowl! You still need to get behind the jack with your remaining bowls. 

More Comprehensive Lawn Bowls Signals Can Produce Better Game Results

Most novices know no more about signals than those indicating which hand to bowl on. This is because the single objective for beginner leads is to place at least one bowl close to the jack, and preferably it should become the shot bowl. Leads are actually only rarely asked to change hands, and niggling to obtain shot is frowned upon. (Niggling is trying to knock away the other lead’s bowls.) They should leave the takeout for the more experienced team members. When the opposing lead has clearly delivered a bowl that will almost certainly be shot, your skip is most likely to ask you to place receiving bowls or ‘catchers’. Your bowls should not be short, where they will obstruct your team’s effort to change the head. The saying is “when down be up.”

All team members should be able to read a variety of signs from the skip. Before stepping onto the mat, each person about to bowl should stand behind the mat and look down at the skip to receive signalled messages. The bowler can also signal questions for the skip, such as, “Are we up or down?” “Which hand do you recommend?”

Stop

At first, your skip will need to start every communication with this signal. Otherwise, the person on the mat may deliver a bowl before information is exchanged. The skip places both hands in front of his/her chest, palms facing towards the boiler on the mat. Like a traffic cop, the message is STOP.

Catcher Bowls

A proposal for a signal to place receiving bowls and make a sustained effort not to be short could be cupped hands. The hand on which the bowl should be grassed can also be indicated, or the lead can signal to be advised about the best side to bowl. Usually, the skip will not ask for a change in hand when asking for a catcher bowl.

Put the Bowl in this Spot

Sometimes the skip will want to signal that a bowl should be delivered to a particular spot. The skip may be worried that the jack could be knocked in among a group of opposing bowls. This can be signalled by pointing the index finger towards the ground at the desired spot and rotating in an inward spiral motion.

Put another Bowl in the Head

This signal must be delivered without fanfare. Unlike other signals, the object is to hide from the opponents what is being signalled. If the skip is concerned that a big count against is possible, if one of his team’s bowls is knocked out, the call will be for another close bowl in the head. The signal is to place the index finger on the side of the head as if scratching. The bowler should aim to draw to the jack, but not close to that single potential counter. In particular, the bowler should be especially cautious not to drive out that important bowl himself!

Cover the Back

A lead is unlikely to need to receive this instruction, but if the opposing lead delivers two or three bowls that are all good receiving bowls, a skip might call for these to be ‘covered’ by placing a bowl in their midst to prevent the opposition from trailing the jack into the cluster. The signal for a covering bowl could be both hands cupped over the head like a hat. Most often, covering will be required by the vice. Another form of cover asks for what is termed the ‘backest bowl’. This is the bowl closest to the ditch that is still in play. If the respot rule is in effect, the cover may be indicating a respotting location. The signal has a special meaning when playing under conditions where there are no dead ends and the jack is respotted. Covering in this situation requires bowling to one of the re-spotting locations in anticipation of an on-shot or drive to break up the head.

Jack or Bowl

When a bowl is jack high and there are 6 inches or less between the bowl and the jack, the pair presents a most enticing target. A skip may want to go after this target early, before the opponents can nudge either the jack or the bowl into a more protected orientation. The skip would signal jack or bowl, meaning that a controlled weight shot should be directed at the head, where hitting either the jack or the close sitting bowl would produce a great result. A possible signal for this would be for the skip to stand up close and directly behind the pair with both hands pointing down and with both palms away from the mat and alternately raise and lower each hand in turn while maintaining the palms open, hidden from the mat.

Run-On through X Meters

Signalling this tactic is very frequently encountered by players who are vice skips. What is being requested is that the bowler should deliver a shot that will pass through the head and continue on for several meters after making contact. The skip points with his index finger at the side of his head and then indicates, by raising some fingers, how much more weight should be placed on the bowl. A run through can also be called from the lead or second if one of the team’s bowls can be promoted onto the jack. If the bowl misses, it becomes a good catcher for future tries.
 

Drive or Up-Shot

Disrupting the head with sufficient force that the end is often killed or the jack respotted is the most frequent purpose of the drive shot. The drive is almost always played by the skip. Very occasionally, when the vice is a better driver, a skip may call for a drive from him or her. When a drive is called for, it is important that the opponents also know what is coming because the bowls on nearby rinks need to be protected, and there can be a danger of the jack flying through the air. When a signal is needed, it can be the person at the head holding an imaginary bowl with a straight arm above the head as high as he can reach. Everyone in the head must recognize that a runner is coming. Since most drives are delivered by the skip, signalling is rarely needed, but the signal is used as a warning. The skip makes this decision.

Block

When a novice is playing skip, there will be many occasions when he has the second last bowl still to deliver, but the best course is not to go near the head but take one’s chance that the opponent cannot convert it to their advantage with their single remaining bowl. In this situation, the novice skip may be called on to place a block shot to challenge the last bowler even more severely. This can be done by placing a short bowl that would interfere with either a drive or a run-through shot that could disrupt the head, whichever is most likely. A signal calling for a block shot could be tracing a square figure in the air with the index fingers of both hands used simultaneously.

A block will be most effective if one hand and the center drive are completely blocked by rather short bowls that cannot be promoted. Then, a very short blocker at about 14 meters in the path of the remaining draw shot would be most effective. It should be delivered inside out to keep it off the neighbouring rinks.

Do Not

Sometimes the skip wants to signal what (s)he does not want the bowler to do. The signal is forearms crossed in an X in front of the face. This signal, for best effect, should be preceded by the ‘stop’ signal because otherwise the partner on the mat may not give it the attention required.

STOP

The stop signal is sent by the skip waving two arms to get attention and then extending both arms horizontally in front, fingers together and palms facing the mat as if his/her hands were a traffic stop sign. The very important signal then follows once attention has been gained.

I would love….

Skip places hands one on top of the other over his/her heart. What follows this signal conveys what the skip wants the bowler to try. For example. I would love… followed by the sign for a blocker. Then followed by the signal Bowl to here. 

Bowl to here

This signal is used by the skip to ask the bowler to place his bowl as close as possible to a particular spot that is different from trying to bowl to the jack.. This signal is used for placing a blocker, placing a catching bowl, or bowling to a ‘false jack’. The skip hangs his bowling towel down over the spot (s)he wants the bowl to stop.

Chop & Lie on this Bowl

Sometimes your side would like to move an opposing bowl and take its position. This is called chop & Lie. The particular opposing bowl is the target and a little extra weight is needed. The skip can point close over the target and then make a repetitive sharp chopping motion with both hands.

If you regularly play with the same teammates, use these ortogether devise your own signals for what your team most often wants to communicate. 

Knowing How to Deliver Up-shots is Vital to Avoid Being Defeated by Long Jacks

The most popular strategy in lawn bowls is to consistently play long ends. The smallest deficiency in an opponent's bowling delivery is exaggerated when the shot that must be played is a heavy one. Moreover, many bowlers just don’t have the physical strength to bowl one long end after another.

The best defense is to get very good at rolling the jack very short and getting very good at drawing to very short jacks, to keep possession of the mat so you can make most ends short. But there is another element to this strategy that is too frequently ignored.

No matter how skilled your side may be, sometimes, even on a short end, your opponents will get the closer bowl(s). On these occasions, you must be able to dependably deliver a weighted shot to break up that head.

This is how to get it right!

First, delivering a weighted shot that disrupts a head does not demand great strength. When one tries to break up a head, especially those only 21-23 meters beyond the mat, as the ones we are talking about will be, most players swing too hard. The bowl then misses and finishes in the forward ditch. You should deliver the bowl that will disrupt a short end with the weight required to travel somewhere between 27- 32 meters, whatever is comfortable for you, BUT that weight, whichever you choose, must be precise and consistent.

Second, you must study, before you need the information, by what fraction you must narrow your normal draw angle so it crosses the center line at a distance of 21-23 beyond the mat. Depending on the playing surface, this will be between 1/3 and 1/4 of your normal draw angle.

Third, and least appreciated, and the cause of most failures, you should walk off the mat following your bowl. This is important because it forces you to keep your body weight moving smoothly forward along your aim line and eliminates any jerkiness that would throw off your line as you release the bowl. 

 Even with normal draw shots, I try to remember to walk off the mat, but it is the most frequent element of my delivery that I forget. When delivering a weighted shot to a short jack, it is crucial not to forget. 

The Strategy of Really Long Ends at Lawn Bowls

In the northern hemisphere, on slow rinks, the most frequently adopted strategy in lawn bowling contests is to deliver very long jacks when the opposing team seems to prefer something shorter. 

Even so many bowlers underestimate the effectiveness of this strategy because they do not realize how dramatically the average bowler’s line control falls off as the jack length increases. As jack length trends towards full length each additional meter of length is responsible for a greater and greater decline in accuracy. 

That is to say, many bowlers underestimate the significance of jack length because they confuse ‘longish ends’ with ‘really long ends’. I would characterize ‘really long ends’ as being only those within 1 meter or less of full length (T to T).  It is on these ‘really long ends’ that the performance of many bowlers falls off precipitously.

“Aha,” you may say, “but to gain the advantage you claim, your lead must be able to consistently deliver these ‘really long jacks.’ “

“Well,” I say, “practice it.”

 Delivering a small white ball to within 3 meters of the forward ditch without any substantial need for line control is really not very hard for anyone. Besides, all that happens if your side does ditch the jack is that the other side gets their chance, and from what I have seen they don’t pay much attention to their delivery at all!

So the situation is this. You get a chance to deliver the jack for a ‘really long end’ for which your side has trained or is naturally advantaged. If you succeed in getting the jack you desire, you are odds on to win the end and furthermore you retain the jack. On the other hand, if your side makes a mistake rolling the jack it suffers no significant penalty!

Where can you find odds like that?

That Very Significant Last Three Meters of Jack Length at Lawn Bowls

 

Just because your lawn bowling opponent(s) can successfully bowl to a jack twenty-seven meters from the mat doesn’t mean at 30 meters the same success will persist. It is that last little stretch in length that so often makes the difference.

 

Even if you are worried that you might deliver the jack into the forward ditch, it shouldn’t deter you from trying to deliver a really long jack, if you have reason to believe that that would benefit your side. Even if you do lose the jack occasionally in the front ditch and give away the mat and jack length to the other side, isn’t it better to have an authentic long jack some of the time if that is what you think would provide an advantage?

The other day I was leading for my side in a triples match where the opposing skip bowled with one knee on the mat. This meant that he was bowling with arm strength alone…..there was no possible contribution from body momentum because he could not step forward. He was able to bowl fairly well to 27 meter jacks but when the length went to 30 meters he was either erratic or three meters short. This provided the tactical advantage to win the match, even though I delivered the jack into the front ditch twice and lost the mat advantage those times. When I did succeed in placing the longer jack we were able to score several multi-point ends.

Messing Up with the Jack at Lawn Bowls

 

In a sixteen-end triples match recently, the opposing lead bowler four times delivered the jack out of bounds and once put it into the forward ditch. Although apparently he didn’t think much of it, his team was trying to play long jacks while our side wanted short ones. These errors led substantially to our win and their defeat.

Too many casual bowlers just chuck the jack down the rink when it should be delivered with exactly the same delivery motion as a bowl. The privilege to deliver the jack and almost immediately follow it with the first bowl of the end provides a lead with an enormous assist in getting the correct weight from their very first bowl.

It is shocking how many beginner and even more experienced players can deliver a bowl reasonably well but frequently mess up delivering the jack.

Perhaps coaches should begin by teaching the delivery with that small white ball and only when the correct form is mastered move on to rolling a bowl with bias.

The Forgiving Side at Lawn Bowls

 

Bowling in a particular direction on a particular lawn bowling rink may have a more forgiving and less forgiving side. This will not be visible.

If a portion of the path that a lawn bowl takes from mat to jack has a slightly concave (center lower than sides) curvature, even though this is undetectable to the eye, the effect will be to correct a delivery that is slightly miss-delivered. Such a side, whether it be backhand or forehand, is said to be ‘forgiving’. Conversely, if a portion of the path that a lawn bowl takes from mat to jack is convex (center higher than sides), this will amplify any miss-delivery and send the bowl further from its intended target. Such a hand is called ‘unforgiving’. The most frequently observed consequence of an ‘unforgiving’ hand is the failure of a bowl to come back toward the center of the rink as it slows. We say, “The bowl hangs out”. We mean the bowl can’t get back because it is on the wrong side of a ridge in the rink. Ridge is just another name for a convex surface!

Whether a rink has ‘forgiving’ or ‘unforgiving’ characteristics doesn’t matter in most instances. Both your team and your opponents usually face identical challenges. But what if your side and the opposition end up repeatedly bowling on opposite sides of the rink and your opponents are consistently getting closer to the jack. They may be simply more skilled— well, not much can be done about that! But the other possibility is that they are bowling on the more ‘forgiving’ hand of that rink.

When that might be the case, you need to switch to match the hand on which they are bowling. It is remarkable how often this is ignored. Today, for example, bowling at Valverde LBC against a visiting touring team from England, the two leads bowled 18 ends with each playing his own side doggedly, even though it seemed apparent that the side one opponent was choosing was punishing the slightest deviation in delivery.

The rules of bowls require that the team that won the previous end must bowl first in the next end. So if the player you are paired against must bowl first, you can bowl the same side and the same line. Follow him down! Beat his bowl! Don’t just stubbornly struggle when the green may be conspiring against you. 

Bowling to a Displaced Jack Near the Boundary at Lawn Bowls

 When the jack gets significantly displaced towards one of the boundary lines and you and the opposing skip each have a single bowl remaining, a special consideration applies. Tactically, it matters who sits shot and how many points are at issue.

What sets this situation apart is:

There is an increased chance that any upcoming delivery will finish out of bounds and become a dead bowl.

With any delivery to a seriously displaced jack, a bowl directed towards it is likely to pass over less disturbed fresh grass where the required bias and weight will be unknown.

If your opponent must bowl before you, you need to watch especially carefully the line taken over any of this fresh green. Your advantage is that you can learn a lot from your opponent’s bowl.

If you must bowl before your opponent, it matters greatly who is sitting shot. If your side has the best bowl already, then the most you can lose is a single point (unless that shot bowl gets removed). Although delivering your bowl inside-out is most often at least partially blocked by bowls around the jack’s previous location, there is the advantage that such delivery will not be teaching your opponent the correct line for his/her last bowl.

If you are already down in the head you probably have to risk bowling outside-in and showing your opponent the line because you need to save points by beating the bowls that are already waiting to be counted against you.

Definitions

Outside-in describes the path of a bowling delivery that starts aimed outside the boundary of the rink and curves back towards the center of the rink.

Inside-out describes the path of a bowling delivery that starts aimed closer to the center of the rink and curves out towards the boundary. 

 

Bringing the Mat Forward to the Hog Line to Confidently Deliver a Very Short Jack Length

 

An indoor World Pairs 2022 match at Potters, illustrated a point I have consistently urged in this Greenbowler blog. 

The most dependable way to get the shortest jack length is to bring the mat forward to the hog line and then bowl the jack just past the forward T. In a match that Andersen/Burnett played against Foster /Marshall, Foster, who was leading, first tried to deliver a short jack with the mat back (at 34:54 minutes) and lost the jack when it was too short whereupon the opponents continued playing full-length jacks to easily win the first set. 

In the second set, Foster got the jack back, and he took the mat forward to the hog line and easily delivered this jack past the forward T (at 49:55 minutes) whereupon it was spotted at exactly 23 meters.  Foster and Marshall, using this length change, got a good lead and won the second set to force a tiebreaker.

Bringing the mat forward to play a short jack length is even more of a no-brainer on the portable rink because there are 3.5 meters from the T to the ditch instead of the regulation distance of only 2.0 meters! It is equally a no-brainer outdoors in Canada where there can be a distinct lip at the edge of some greens that reduces the likelihood of ditching the jack.

When playing on such a rink, before the match commences, go and inspect the edges of both ditches. There may be a bigger lip in one area as opposed to the remainder of the edges. 

When employing this strategy your lead should deliver the jack toward that area.

If you are playing in Canada and would be content with a 23 meter jack length, place the mat  2 meters short of the first hog line and deliver the jack from there. You will have 2 meters leeway to be short and 2 meters leeway to be long!

Using a Different Order of Play in Lawn Bowling Triples

 

I have always felt that on a triples team, I would like the second most skillful bowler to deliver the jack and the lead bowls. A skip has considerable latitude to reassign the duties of the bowlers on his team to achieve this, although it is rarely exercised.

 

Who must rake the bowls is not specified in the Laws of the Sport of Bowls. This job can be assigned by the skip to his vice. According to Rule 40.2.1 “...the third can (my italics) measure any and all disputed shots.” Since the word can is used, the skip can assign this job to his lead if he chooses. “[A] player who is controlling play” is referred to in Rule 12.1.3 but that player is not designated as a person who occupies a particular position in the order of play. It follows that a skip could assign the lead to control play at any time but in particular when the skip goes to the mat.

It is thus possible for a skip to have his most experienced colleague place the mat, deliver the jack, deliver the first three bowls for the side, control play when the skip is bowling, and measure to determine the score; while leaving the less skilled or less experienced bowler to rake the bowls and deliver the fourth, fifth and sixth bowls for the side!

There are several less obvious advantages to this arrangement. Since the lead is more experienced than the vice in this situation, this experience can be used to determine which is the more playable side of the rink and communicate this to the less experienced colleague. Another fact that can be passed on is whether a particular side is narrower or wider than normal.

This order of play gives the better of the first two bowlers on the team the least hindered approach to the jack and the chance to get a close bowl early to put pressure on the opposition. Since your second best bowler delivers the jack there is much better control of jack length for the team’s strategy and the deliverer of the jack has a better feel for the length of the end. The lead can remind a less experienced colleague that the jack is short, medium, or long and whether the green is fast or slow. 

There are disadvantages. If this newly selected lead fails to get close bowls, it becomes more likely than before for the side to be seriously down by the time the skip comes to the mat. Because your weakest bowler is now bowling second (s)he may face a less open head. The chance of playing a successful running shot is reduced.

The aforementioned order of play is particularly attractive for a team that comprises an experienced pairs team joined by a less experienced bowler. This is even more appealing if the experienced pair has a set of well-developed hand signals for communicating between head and mat. It might also appear to appeal to a mens’ pairs team augmented with a female in order to qualify for mixed triples. However, it is tactically important that the lead would be well advised to deliver jack lengths and choose mat positions that optimize the play of the less experienced, second player.

Bowls Tactics: When you are Ahead in the Last End but Have the Mat

Fall 2020 Willowdale LBC

 

Introduction

Lawn bowls is a game where consistency is rewarded. It is not how close a particular single delivery is to the jack; it is how often your bowls finish close to the jack. Throughout most of a match, no-one should fret if an opponent builds up a big lead beating your own close deliveries. So long as your side consistently bowls well, the law of averages should be trusted to even out the difference.

When the final ends come around, however, such faith is no longer warranted. To win the match the team that is behind must act in ways that might be imprudent any other time and the team that is leading must be aware of this and take appropriate counter-measures.

The more shots a side is behind, the sooner these more daring tactics need to be invoked. As the side in the lead, remember that in this situation it is the opponents that must take lower-percentage riskier shots to catch up. 

The Specific Tactical Problem

The specific tactical problem for the side still ahead but with the mat is that your opponent(s) will have the final bowl of this last end. To be secure your side will need to have in the head at least two bowls that will reduce the other side's potential count to less than is necessary to win the match. If you do not have these two bowls, the opposing skip can potentially knock your single protector out of the head and may score enough to gain a multiple and perhaps sufficient to win the match. Furthermore, these two bowls must be disposed far enough apart that they cannot be removed together by this last shot. Moreover, though less dangerous, all your bowls should not be disposed such that this last opposition bowl can trail the jack to a position where your opponent would score sufficient shots to win. In particular, your opponent should be prevented from ditching the jack with that last bowl and scoring sufficient points to win.

Now, trailing the jack is much harder than knocking out a single bowl so getting two bowls into the head is much more important than protecting against a trail. So, when both dangers threaten, protect by placing the two bowls in the head! 

The Psychological Problem

Since your side won the last end (that is why you have the mat) in one way the psychological pressure will not be as severe as in the end just finished. Your side is at least one point further ahead and the opposition has one-half as many ends to catch up. Nevertheless, your advantage may be as narrow as a single point. If you are not playing singles but are the skip of a team, you should meet with your team before the end begins. This is your right— you have possession of the mat—don’t let your opponents rush you.

 

Nervous Inexperienced Lead

If your lead is nervous, inexperienced, or both, encourage him/her to try to deliver a jack of a length that feels most comfortable. This is usually the lead’s natural length. Then, explain that you will help in setting the mat so that when the jack gets delivered about that length it will end up about 1 meter short of the forward T. Then explain that for that first bowl, you will indicate with your shoe a point about 1 meter behind the jack and your lead should visualize getting the bowl as close as possible to your shoe. Without actually warning your lead not to be short you are asking him/her to aim for this shoe target behind the jack.

If you are playing in an intra-club tournament and your lead has hardly ever competed, do none of these things. Rather, with the mat where it is most commonly placed, call for a jack at exactly the same length as in the last end. Be as relaxed and casual as possible.

 

Under all circumstances, no matter how that first delivery goes, you, as skip, should call for the next delivery on the same hand just adjusting weight as necessary and continuing to reach to your shoe. Do not, except for the most extraordinary circumstances, ask your lead to change hands for the second bowl. Also, if your lead delivers a short first bowl do not show any irritation or frustration, just encourage an appropriate adjustment. At this point, your outward demeanor is as important as your lead’s skill.

Influence of the Rules of Play

What to do with mat and jack, when you are ahead in the last end and have the mat, can depend upon the rules in play.

Closed End 

According to the rules that formerly were in force in Ontario Canada, for example, all ends were closed with an allowance that each team could kill one end in the match after which the next dead end caused by that team counted as an end played with one point awarded to the non-offending side. In this situation, it matters strategically whether your opponent(s) have already killed an end before this final end. If they have, you do not need to worry about a kill since it would only increase your lead. On the other hand, if they still retain the right to kill an end, you need to preferably place the jack close to the front ditch making it more difficult for the jack to be driven out of bounds. If your preference is a short or medium jack, this can still be achieved by moving the mat up the rink so that the jack can still be kept near the forward ditch while the jack length is as you prefer.

 
Last End Open

When the last end is open, an opponent can burn ends that are not favorable without limit. Because of this, your side should prefer a long jack in most circumstances.

 The mat should be at the T line and the jack should be rolled full length. This maximizes the difficulty of burning the end. It is harder to strike the jack the further it is along the rink. At the same time, the closer it is to the front ditch the more likely it is to enter the ditch and be still in play rather than to shoot off at an oblique angle and exit the side boundaries.  Since you are defending a lead, keep count of how many points the other side would rack up if they trailed the jack into the ditch. Matching bowls is a good strategy  in this tactical position.

Re-Spotting (No burnt ends)

With re-spotting in effect, it is important to deliver the jack as close as possible to the re-spot location. The more possibilities there are to score, the harder it is to defend. The most common re-spot position is two meters from the ditch on the centerline. The best position for defense is to have the jack centered three meters from the ditch. So that if you can place your first bowl 1 meter behind the jack it will be sitting on the respotting position. This way you combine the merits of finishing behind the jack and covering the respotting position. You arrange for your preferred length by moving the mat up the rink. It should be set to the lead’s natural distance. The lead should try to place his first bowl one meter behind the jack on the re-spot position. It is particularly important not to be short. The more bowls behind the jack, the better the defense prospects. The first person to get a bowl close to the jack will have tremendously improved prospects. 

Bowls Tactics: When you are Behind in the Last End but Have the Mat

 

Introduction

Lawn bowls is a game where consistency is rewarded. It is not how close a particular bowl is to the jack; it is how often your bowls are close to the jack. Throughout most of a match no-one should fret if an opponent builds up a big lead beating your own close deliveries. As long as your side maintains a consistency of excellent bowling, the law of averages can be counted on to even out the difference.

When the final ends come around, however, such complacency is no longer warranted. To win the match the team that is behind must act in ways that would be inadvisable tactics any other time in the match and the team that is leading must be aware of this and take appropriate counter-measures.

The further a side is behind, the sooner these strategies need to be invoked. In a group of blog articles I am considering these last-end situations.

 

You are Behind in the Last End but Have the Mat

You have just won the penultimate end of your match; but, you are still behind. They have the last bowl. Your side gets to place the mat and roll the jack. Very few skips make good use of these choices. It is all you have to work with. You want to choose the conditions that make their side as uncomfortable as possible relative to your side. You need to squeeze out every particle of advantage from the situation.

You have won the end just finished. If it is obvious from the previous ends what to do now, just do it. If it is not obvious how to proceed, choose what is radically different. This may throw off your side even more than your opponents but remember: you want an end that scores a multiple and a mat position and length that makes both sides uncomfortable is most likely to do that. You must just hope that your side is the side least upset!

A theoretically good choice, if you have nothing else to go on is to deliver a medium jack from partway up the green. The logic is this. It will be harder for the other side to properly estimate the jack length but because your side has delivered the jack your lead bowler will have a better initial  ’feel’ for the correct length. You do not want a long jack because you might need to try to ‘kill’ the end (if the rules allow) and the closer the jack is to the front ditch the less likely you can drive it out of bounds rather than just putting it in the ditch. Alternately (If you are playing with re-spotting) you do not want the jack to be on the forward T because you might need the extra choices arising from re-spotting to a distinctly different position that would provide increased possibilities for the multiple you seek.  

As you can see, strategically, it is significant whether the last end is open or closed. That is— whether the end can be killed and replayed, or the jack must instead be re-spotted if it is driven out of bounds. It is advantageous to the trailing team if killing the end is allowed. If your side has delivered a very close bowl that also widens the head, your opponents will be assessing the possible benefit from attempting a ‘kill’. This is what you want them to be forced to attempt because if they miss, that bowl of theirs cannot score. 

Finally, of course, it is important by how many shots are you trailing? To be trailing by even a single shot when the opponents also have last bowl is a considerable disadvantage. No matter how badly the end develops for them, they will have that final chance to turn it around. You can do nothing about their last bowl. There is no rejoinder.

Since they do have last bowl, the best situation you can aim for is to be sitting match in hand when the opposing skip comes to make that final delivery.  This will apply psychological pressure. You need to make him/her choke!  You want to make that shot as difficult as possible.