Search This Blog

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

Measuring at Lawn Bowls


As a novice, like myself, becomes better (and better known) at his home club (s)he will be drawn in fun roll-ups to play positions other than lead. If you are asked to be vice-skip you will need to be able to measure properly. Besides a measure and chalk always carry a small towel. It is not only good for drying/cleaning bowls, but should also be used when measuring for more than one point. Lay the towel on the ground and place each scoring bowl onto the towel. This avoids confusion and ensures that a bowl already counted and set aside is not accidentally measured again. Get into the habit of doing this all the time, not only in tournaments. Bowls that are not scoring but are just in the way  can be taken aside well away from the scoring zone.


Either vice can ask for a measure, and their opposite number cannot refuse the request. Some vices are not above exerting a little psychological pressure at this stage, by making it very clear to their opposite number particularly if (s)he has not been bowling multi years, that there is absolutely no need for a measure and it is blindingly obvious which bowl is the winner. On the other hand, it is not unknown, when a measure has been insisted upon, for the “bully” to be proved wrong!


Measuring Tapes


Before beginning measuring, place wedges under any bowls that will be considered in the count that look as if they could fall over. It is important that they not fall until the measuring is complete. Wedges can be made from the corks of empty wine bottles. Preparing wedges can be fun- particularly the drinking!


There are two types of measurement devices in general use. String measures are generally preferred in competitive play but some players regret this trend because it is far easier to cheat with a string measure than with a metal tape. Make sure that the distance measured between jack and bowl is the shortest possible. This means that the measure must be placed in a dead straight line, and that the tip of the tape touches the bowl at the point closest to the jack. It is possible for a player to cheat at this stage by measuring the two bowls at different points, such that one of them is measured too low, or to one side (or see above wrt misaligning the tape the case). It only takes a millimeter of difference to change which bowl is closer, and a cheating player can find that millimeter very easily! When you are not the measurer be a careful observer. If it is crucial ask to perform the measurement again yourself.

It is sometimes necessary to repeat the measuring procedure, and the other vice may wish to check the result for himself/herself. The two players must always agree on the result, which is usually signaled by the conceding player pushing away the opposing bowl that is closer, followed by the winning side picking up the jack.


Calipers can be used when bowl and jack are too close to get the measuring device between the bowls. Good calipers have a screw adjustment and can be purchased from any specialty bowls shop online, such as shotbowl.


http://www.shotbowl.co.uk/Calipers.aspx


With calipers, try not to get the measure too accurate. Nine times out of ten you don't need to touch both objects. You are just trying using the calipers to make obvious any difference between the two gaps. This can be done while still avoiding contact of the calipers with the jack. Always use the bowl which is heavier as your stable object.  You can run one leg of the caliper down the bowl safely without it moving but the jack should not be touched.


Most standard string or tape measurement tools include some form of calipers but these are very crude and can lead to troubles. A referee probably has the more precise screw calipers. Calipers require practice to use properly. Firstly, place them below the gap between the bowl and jack. Let the back of the caliper rest near or on the ground and raise the points upwards. Withdraw the caliper away from the bowls and jack to make adjustments. You should never make adjustments while the calipers are still resting between the bowl and jack.


For even closer measurements when two competing bowls both seem in contact with the jack, to determine whether both are actually resting on the jack you can take a dollar bill or any smooth sheet of paper and try to slide it, in turn, between each bowl and the jack. If the paper moves easily between jack and bowl they are not resting on each other. If it will not slide easily, that bowl and jack are touching.


If one player is measuring and moves jack and/or bowl the opposite number must be the one restoring that bowl or jack. There is little you can do to prevent him/her from restoring it closer than it was (in your opinion). For this reason, there are some folks who always ask the opponent to do the measuring. Others always ask the umpire, marker, or some neutral person. 


When using a string or tape measure it is not a bad idea to never actually touch the jack but be about a half mm off, because it’s far easier to accidentally move the jack than the bowl. Also, a player should not place a wedge against the jack because if the jack has moved the opponent can reposition it. Remember the idea of measuring is to be able to see the difference between the two lengths rather than putting a number on those lengths themselves. If you measure both distances holding the measure about a half mm from the jack, but not touching, and you cannot still decide, call the umpire or someone neutral to measure.


It can happen, even when everything is legitimate that no decision can be reached and the bowls in question are declared to be exactly the same distance from the jack. If the measure is for second (etc) bowl, it is not counted in the score. If the measure was for the shot bowl, neither side is allowed to score; the end is counted as having been played (i.e. it is not a dead end) but no score is recorded. In other jurisdictions, each side in this situation receives one point and the end counts. In continuing on with the match, the side that had led off during the end will continue to lead for the next one.


If the measurer touches the jack which wobbles and the other vice says “my shot”. You can say, “No, you put it back and we’ll remeasure.” Whether it is the bowl or the jack that is moved don’t just let your opponent claim anything. Get him or her to re-position the jack. At least that way you have a half chance of them getting it back in the correct spot. 


If you are playing singles you can ask the marker for assistance either before or after you've tried to measure. (Don't forget the marker must not push out a shot bowl; he can only point to what in his opinion are shots leaving the option for an umpire to be called.)


Measuring for yourselves first before calling outside help seems like the common sense approach. If you can reach an agreement, then no one else need be disturbed. If skips agree to ask another uninvolved player that person becomes de facto the umpire. Once you call and agree on a third party to measure,  that decision is final. No objection is valid and any objection is unsportsmanlike. You cannot get any other decision. Once an umpire or neutral party is measuring it is good etiquette to leave the head and not watch. Indeed, there is no point in watching. Even if there is a grievous error against you, you will just upset yourself; where nothing can be done. 



Only an umpire should resort to wedging the jack! Even so it is not recommended by official lawn bowling associations unless especially difficult conditions prevail such as very high winds or a jack at risk at the edge of the ditch.


Remember Rule 40.5 from the Crystal Lawn Bowling Rules. When measuring between a jack in the ditch and a bowl on the green or a jack on the green and a bowl in the ditch, the measurement should be carried out using a flexible or string measure whenever possible.


Make the fewest measurements possible for determining the score in an end

In most dispositions of the head, counting is simple. Even where a measurement is needed it is most often only between two bowls; however, situations more complicated can arise. To avoid becoming confused and to use the measuring tape as little as is necessary to establish the score, the following rules are useful.


1.       Decide which bowl is shot. This will involve measuring one distance between a candidate and the jack and comparing it to the distances for other shot candidates. This is done by choosing the shorter distance among the first two and comparing it with that of the next candidate and so on.


2.       Place the shot bowl on a towel to indicate that it is measured and will count.


3.       Remove any other undisputed counting bowls of the same team that has the shot bowl by placing them on the cloth.


4.       Find the closest bowl belonging to the team that did not have the shot bowl. If there are several bowls that might be the closest bowl belonging to the team that does not hold shot, measure among these contending bowls to find out which is the closest.


5.       Using this measurement find any other bowls belonging to the team holding shot that are closer than this measurement and place each of these bowls on the towel.


6.       Count the bowls on the towel. This is the score for the team that had shot.

I will illustrate this with some examples.



Example #1









Bowls 1, 2, and 3 are undisputed counters for the blue team. Place them on the towel. Measure 4 and compare it with 5. Choose the closer. If it is 4 then compare 4 with 6. If it is 5 that is closer, measure 5 and compare it with 6. Whichever of 4,5 or 6 is the closest, take that measure and compare it in turn with 7, 8, 9 and then 10. Each of 7, 8, 9 and 10 that is closer than the best of 4,5 and 6 is placed on the towel. The number of bowls on the towel is the correct score for the blue team.


Example #2

The blue team has shot indisputably. Place bowl 1 on the towel. Measure 2 and compare with 3. If the green 2 is closer than 3, the blue team scores 1. If the blue 3 is closer than 2. Place bowl 2 on the towel. The next closest bowl in 3. The blue team scores the two bowls on the towel.     





Example #3



The green team has three undisputed closer bowls. Place these on the towel.

Measure among 4, 7, 8, 9, and 10 to find which is the closest blue bowl among them. Compare the shortest of these measurements against 5. If 5 is closer place, 5 on the towel. Compare it now with 6. If 6 is closer, place 6 on the towel. Count the bowls on the towel. This is the score for the green team.


Further information about measuring can be found at https://greenbowler.blogspot.com/2021/04/measuring-in-close-disputed-ends-at.html





Monday, March 24, 2014

Lawn Bowl Delivery Instruction at Turramurra


This novice bowler has taken advantage of staying for the winter, within 500 meters of the Turramurra Lawn Bowling Club, in Sydney Australia to receive coaching on my bowling delivery.

My First Lesson

The most fundamental recommended change was not to crouch at the beginning of delivery but to stand with my legs straight but with my trunk slightly bent forward at the waist. This will pay off, it was explained to me, not so much now when I am still quite physically fit, but as I grow older, when I will not need to change my delivery to take into consideration increasing infirmities. Starting the delivery without crouching is the least stressful style.

A second significant observation of the coach was that too often my nonbowling arm ends up out in the air rather than resting consistently on the knee of the advancing leg. So now, for a non-crouch delivery, the non-bowling hand starts out with the fingers resting lightly at about the bottom of my pocket on the thigh of the leg that will step forward and ends up resting lightly on the knee of that forward leg.

The third significant change relates to the placement of my feet before delivery. Instead of standing with feet essentially together, it was advocated that my advancing foot should begin one-half a shoe length forward of my anchor foot. When I tried this 
combined with an upright starting stance, I  found that this caused almost all my weight to remain on my anchor foot throughout the delivery, automatically, while before I had to make a conscious effort to keep my weight predominantly on this foot; thus, this new modification again simplified my delivery.

I had seen in bowling videos on U-tube that many top bowlers tuck the knee of their anchor leg in behind the heel of their advancing leg when they deliver. I was not finding this necessary and so I asked the coach why this happened. He explained that I was not doing it because I was stepping forward parallel to the aim line rather than stepping more towards the aim line; that is directly in front of my anchor foot. If I were to step more towards the aim line according to theory my eyes would be directly over the aim line and I would improve the proportion of bowls passing cleanly through my stare point.

My Second Lesson 

I had the good fortune to have another lesson from a different teacher, Geoff Hamilton, who is the club champion and the CEO of the Turramurra Lawn Bowling Club. In my second lesson, my instructor said that he had been watching me practicing in a roll-up. His main concern was that I was still in too much of a crouch. He wanted me to stand up straight when I stepped onto the mat with my feet positioned as previously described but with a slight flexing of the knees and the weight on the balls of my feet so that I inclined slightly forward. (I will continue to try to keep most of my weight on my anchor foot.) He again emphasized that the goal was to have a delivery that would not need to change as I aged and acquired more aches and pains.

His next criticism was that after releasing the bowl I stepped back onto the mat rather than continuing to move my weight forward with the shot. He said that I should instead draw up my anchor foot so that I would end up standing with both feet out in front of the mat. He stated emphatically that on fast greens consistent weight transfer would be essential for controlling the momentum and hence length of my shots.

The third criticism was that I was flailing in the air with my free hand rather than sliding it down to rest on my advancing knee. After the bowl was released and traveling down the rink was the time to check (i) whether my delivering arm was raised no higher than my advancing knee (ii) that my anchor knee was just behind my advancing foot and (iii) that my non-bowling hand was resting on my knee. Even so, the number one job, once the bowl was released, was to notice whether the stare point was being hit and if not by how much and in which direction the miss occurred so it could be correlated with the final bowl position.