The On-Shot, Running Shot, and Drive Shot

The Learning Dilemma

A common situation that enthusiastic novice bowlers get into is they get good enough that, at their home club, the draw master makes them skip a team, because, if they are put in as lead, that team will be too strong for friendly club games. The problem for the enterprising novice is that although free lessons are provided for groups of beginning players to teach them the draw shot, there are too few of these advancing novices to make lessons worthwhile for teaching additional shot types that any skip ought to have in his or her repertoire. Thankfully my coach loaned me a copy of "How to Play Lawn Bowls. The Centerline Method" This pamphlet was originally written by George H. Claridge, a top New Zealand bowler, and then revised and adapted by Joe Murphy for Canadian conditions.

This, in my opinion, is the clearest and most succinct treatment of advanced shots that I have been able to find. Most books for skips are filled with a lot of blather about team building, concentration, and morale maintenance that anyone with experience in the working world has already absorbed in management training courses at their workplace. This pamphlet sticks to the mechanics of advanced shot-making.

I will try to paraphrase some of these teachings rather than copy them since I am not sure about the copyright status of the publication in question. The advanced shots treated are the on- shot, the running shot, and the drive shot.  These shots tend to blend into one another so I have set out what I understand to be the defining characteristics of each. 

Weighted Shots

Weighted shots are of several subtypes. All are intended to collide with something already in the head, either by wicking, wresting, trailing the jack, or just giving a grouping of close-packed bowls in the head a reorganizing jolt. These shots are delivered with enough force that they are likely themselves to stay in the head so long as they achieve their intended impact. 

On-Shot or Yard-On

The on-shot, unlike the running and drive shots, is a variation of the draw shot. It gets its name from the skip’s instruction asking for ‘another yard on’ meaning (s)he wants the same delivery as the last with a yard more length. When you draw into the head and come to a stop in front of another bowl one is said to “rest” on that bowl. When the objective is to hit the other bowl and come to rest yourself, but move the other bowl some distance further along, your bowl is said to “wrest.” When directed at another bowl the on-shot is attempting to wrest or displace that target. To displace a bowl close to the jack, or to displace the jack, or to disturb the head, adjust by halving the draw width and increase the weight of delivery to take the bowl an additional 3.5 to 4.5 meters on through the head.

To recapitulate, the on-shot uses the exact same delivery as the draw shot but simply adjusts the grass and the weight. 

Running and Drive Shots 

The running shot is a controlled weight shot of at least ditch weight. As taught in this pamphlet the same ditch weight is used whether the head is close to the hog line or close to the forward ditch. The usual target is an opponent’s bowl. The usual object is to remove that target bowl from the count. Whether your bowl stays or exits the head depends upon the length of the delivery path. The running shot is more accurate than the drive shot. It has to be since its target is often a single isolated opponent’s bowl not a jack/bowls cluster. 

The drive shot is used to break up the head when you can reach neither the opponent’s shot bowl nor the jack in any other way; when you want to kill the end; or to displace a confined target accessible only through a port parallel to the centerline. The drive delivers the bowl with as much force as you can dependably control. Everything is done to make the bowl’s path as straight a line to the target as possible. 

The running and drive shots  use techniques different from this. The running shot does not use elevation at all to provide power; the weight comes from a long step out pull on the bowl combined with a strong muscle push of it. In contrast, the drive shot has a different starting stance that reduces  weight transfer from side-to-side and a slightly different grip that minimizes the chance of finger deflections and it also applies wobble to the bowl to further straighten its path.  This is combined with a bigger backswing to provide power by elevating the bowl.

Running Shot

 The running shot, it is generally agreed, is more accurate than the drive shot. It is only when many bowls must be dispersed that the extra energy of a drive shot is needed. The running shot is for a precise excision from the head while the drive is a grenade into the head! In common practice the drive is often used when the running shot is a better choice. The delivery of the running shot begins with the delivery arm holding the bowl hanging vertical and the body bent from the waist to bring the bowl close to the ground. Some players use a little backswing for this shot but no backswing is  preferred. In setting a target point, reduce the draw width by two thirds and use this new aim line to set a target on that new line next to the object to be displaced. All running shots are delivered with the same weight: ditch weight. Swing the bowl a time or two along the aim line. The shot is delivered by pushing off with the stationary foot and taking a big step forward close and parallel to the aim line pulling the bowl with your body movement and pushing the bowl along the aim line to the target with your arm muscles. The idea is that consistency in the length of step and in the application of muscular force through the arm and fingers will produce a reproducible weight that is at least ditch weight. The backswing is minimized because it is this swing than can most often throw your body offline and cause aiming inaccuracy.

The Drive

Without Tilt

The grip on the bowl for the drive is different than for other shots. It is necessary to use the claw grip with your three longest fingers working together on one side of the bowl and your thumb on the other. The claw is necessary because the bowl must be securely gripped during a substantial backswing. The middle finger must be placed along the middle of the running surface of the bowl. The other longer fingers can be in each of the gripping rings. The middle finger will be the last part of the hand in contact with the bowl and because your arm is accelerating to provide speed the effect of this finger may be exaggerated compared to more slowly delivered shots so it is particularly important that it must not deflect the bowl from the aim line. The thumb, which for other shots is usually in one of gripping rings, should be placed half-way between the centre running surface line of the bowl and a gripping ring. Your little finger may be placed anywhere that feels comfortable. When delivered with speed, this grip will send the bowl away with a wobble, which helps to keep the bowl running straight. Now take a stance on the mat so that you will be delivering the bowl over the front centre edge of the mat. The stance is the standard one except that the foot that will be stepping out should be placed comfortably forward of the foot anchoring you firmly on the mat. All the weight is on this anchor foot and the forward foot is used only for balance. The anchor foot should point at the aiming point, which is the target or a point only slightly displaced from the target. Unlike in the running shot, where the power comes from a long step out pulling the arm and a strong muscle push accelerating the bowl, in the drive the step out will be small and the power will come from elevating the bowl in the backswing. Body motions other than that of the arm are minimized. The body should be in a crouch at the beginning of delivery. Your back should be already bent about 45 degrees to bring your delivery hand down to the grass. Your forward step is going to be small because the step out foot is already somewhat advanced. The bowl should be released when your arm comes down to the vertical and the arm should follow through along the aiming line with the delivery arm. You must move forward off the mat when the bowl is delivered to prevent your body weight wrenching sideways at the bowl's release. Holding on to the bowl too long before releasing it will draw the bowl off your aim line (narrow if on the forehand and wide if on the backhand).

Using Tilt or Wobble

Right-handed Bowlers

Hold the bowl in your left hand with the non-bias side (large centre disc) on the left.  Place your right hand over the bowl and grip it with the first three fingers, the middle finger being halfway between the gripping ring on the non-bias side of the bowl (large centre disc) and the centre of the bowl.  Place your thumb on the opposite side of the bowl halfway between the centre of the bowl and the gripping ring on the bias side of the bowl (small centre disc), your little finger may be placed anywhere for comfort.  Turn your right hand over.  Hold the palm of your right hand level with the ground.  You are ready to step onto the mat to bowl on the forehand. The top of the bowl is tilted to the outside.

Hold the bowl in your left hand with the non-bias side (large centre disc) on the right.  Place your right hand over the bowl and grip it with the first three fingers, the middle finger being halfway between the gripping ring on the bias side of the bowl (small centre disc) and the centre of the bowl.  Place your thumb on the opposite side of the bowl halfway between the centre of the bowl and the gripping ring on the non-bias side of the bowl (large centre disc), your little finger may be placed anywhere for comfort.  Turn your right hand over.  Hold the palm of your right-hand level with the ground.  You are ready to step onto the mat to bowl on the backhand.  The top of the bowl is tilted towards the inside.

Left-Handed Bowlers

Hold the bowl in your right hand with the non-bias side (large centre disc) on the right.  Place your left hand over the bowl and grip it with the first three fingers, the middle finger being halfway between the gripping ring on the non-bias side of the bowl (large centre disc) and the centre of the bowl.  Place your thumb on the opposite side of the bowl halfway between the centre of the bowl and the gripping ring on the bias side of the bowl (small centre disc), your little finger may be placed anywhere for comfort.  Turn your left hand over.  Hold the palm of your left-hand level with the ground.  You are ready to step onto the mat to bowl on the forehand. The top of the bowl is tilted to the outside.

Hold the bowl in your right hand with the non-bias side (large centre disc) on the left.  Place your left hand over the bowl and grip it with the first three fingers, the middle finger being halfway between the gripping ring on the bias side of the bowl (small centre disc) and the centre of the bowl.  Place your thumb on the opposite side of the bowl halfway between the centre of the bowl and the gripping ring on the non-bias side of the bowl (large centre disc), your little finger may be placed anywhere for comfort.  Turn your left hand over.  Hold the palm of your left-hand level with the ground.  You are ready to step onto the mat to bowl on the backhand.  The top of the bowl is tilted towards the inside.

I have found the entire article about the centreline method online at https://81wellington.blogspot.com/2016/11/the-centreline-method.html