The Delivery at Lawn Bowls: Alex Marshall’s Bowling Grip

As mentioned in a previous blog, November and December are months for a lot of Youtube watching of bowls matches. The bowls season ended in mid October in Canada and my wife and I don’t head off for Portugal and the Valverde LBC until New Year’s eve.

Since I model my own bowling delivery after Alex Marshall MBE, I watch his matches particularly closely, employing slow motion and free frame techniques to see even the smaller elements of technique. I am noticing this year that besides exhibiting the shooters’ stance, he uses a non-standard bowls grip. I have tried to show this in the screen pictures above. This grip was being taught as an alternative grip in a teaching manual that I obtained while bowling in New South Wales, Australia about five years ago.

The advantage that I see with this grip is that it corresponds more completely to the natural angle that your relaxed hand would take up if you let your arm hang loosely at your side. I have tried to show this in my own photo below. The aim line is the edge of the carpet. I am left-handed and my arm is hanging relaxed at my side. My fingers are not parallel to the aim line. If a bowl is now simple inserted into my hand with the running surface parallel to the aim line I will be holding the bowl just like Alex is doing in the pictures above.

You can also see illustrated that I too am in the shooters' stance with my anchor (left) foot is at an angle to the aim line to provide greater stability when I step forward.

What the Complaints About Bowling Arms Tells Me

I have noted an editorial in Bowls Plus Magazine  

 positing that some special regulation should be applied to bowlers who use bowling arms because they create an unfair advantage. It is claimed that these 'armed' bowlers make errors of line only about 2% of the time while regular 'hand' bowlers make errors around 30-35% of the time. These numbers come from the letter’s author, Geoff Mathers of MCC-Kew Sports Club Inc., Victoria in Australia, who claims to have watched both types of bowlers extensively.

Two points arise in my mind that follow from this. First of all, this data must pertain to run-of-the-mill, club bowlers like so many of us! Good match-play bowlers do not miss their line so often. You can gather your own statistics watching on Youtube. Second, I think if this is correct it should be teaching us regular ‘hand’ bowlers something about how to improve ourselves.

What would give ‘arm’ bowlers such a big advantage? Think about it. I can think of two possibilities.

 First, the ‘arm’ bowler does not need to lower his/her body to release the bowl onto the green. Lowering your body by bending your knees while simultaneously swinging your arm can disturb your balance more than just swinging your arm the way the ‘arm’ bowler is required to do. This points to the importance for us unassisted bowlers of starting with our advancing foot somewhat forward so that our body lowering can be minimized by being already closer to the ground. Also, the ‘hand’ bowler can stabilize his/her body during the stepping forward by resting one hand on the forward stepping knee. This extra stabilization is not available to the ‘arm’ bowler. But many ‘hand’ bowlers do not use these elements in their deliveries. Having given up two advantages that would strengthen their balance, perhaps, it is these less-experienced bowlers who are complain the most about the supposed unfairness.

Another possibility is that the ‘arm’ bowlers get a clearer, more consistent view of the correct line because their  bowl is released from a more upright position so that the ‘armed’ bowler can easily keep his/her eyes fixed on an aim point on the forward ditch. The ‘hand’ bowler often finds it a great strain on the neck to stare at a point on the forward ditch while simultaneously bending down to grass his/her bowl. If this is the cause of the large discrepancy in holding the correct line, it may just need to be reemphasized that ‘hand’ bowlers should pick out their line while standing upright (like the ‘arm’ bowler) behind the mat, then select the appropriate stare point on that line, position themselves correctly on the mat, and deliver their bowl over that stare point. 

I do not think even we club bowlers will miss our line 30-35% of the time so long as we maintain the proper pre-shot routine. Perhaps the posited success of bowlers using a bowling arm can assist us all to be better.

Suggestions for Videographing Lawn Bowls

All November and December-It’s too cold to bowl outside in Canada. It’s too early to leave for a more hospitable climate; so, I watch a lot of lawn bowls online. 

General Atmosphere

Why is it required that spectators be quiet during play? Other sports do not ask for this. A basketball player throwing a free throw does not have silence or lack of motion from spectators. A baseball pitcher trying to throw strikes doesn’t. In the Australian Premier League there does not seem to be any such requirement for quiet. What do players think about this topic? If we want popularity, let’s lighten up!

Videography

Couldn’t the broadcast show some slow motion and freeze frame pictures of the different bowlers’ deliveries?

 Couldn’t a camera show some overhead shots from behind the bowler when he is delivering so we can see how wide a line is being taken? I have seen such shots but they do not continue long enough to provide all the information they could.

Sometimes a commentator seems ( from what is being said ) to be  marking on the screen where the best bowl should come in but I can’t see the marking on my screen. Why is that? Can’t it be fixed? 

In ice hockey, video is available from a camera mounted on a referee’s head. Couldn’t this be available for bowls by mounting a camera on the marker’s head (wearing a helmet!). It would also be useful when the marker is asked for an opinion about close bowls. The viewers could  see what the marker sees.

You have a ditch camera but it is only used when there is jack and/or bowl in the ditch. Couldn’t it be used for variety at other times?

Couldn’t overlapped pictures of a bowler’s deliveries be used to show how consistent these  deliveries are? The amazing skill of top bowlers is that they can do exactly the same thing over and over. We need videographer expertise to be able to make this point. 

Would it be possible to show close-ups of the grip of a bowler or his eyes during delivery? This would interest viewers and provide variety in the telecasting.

The sport has an inherent problem. There is an extended period of inaction between when a bowl is released at the mat and when it arrives in the head. Perhaps during this space, when the commentators are speaking, a camera could switch so we can see them. It would be more interesting than all the time watching a close-up of a running bowl.

The Participants

Viewers would be interested in the previous bowling history of the participants. This is already done to some extent but could be expanded. This would include what tournaments they had already won or participated in with a good outcome. Have these bowlers ever played against each other before? What was the outcome? What previous matches have they played in the present tournament? Where are they ranked in the world now? Have either of them been members of national teams? Do the participants play both indoors and outdoors?

What about injuries; have any of the competitors had injuries that have kept them out of competition for long periods? Have any participants had foot, leg or knee injuries? It would be comforting to compare their travails with our own.

Do these participants have good anecdotes about themselves? Talking about the players can nicely fill during the play. Viewers can watch and listen at the same time.

The Rink and the Rules

What is the maximum length of jack in this game? On typical outdoor rinks what is the maximum length? What is the speed on the surface being used in this match? How does this speed affect the shots chosen?

Can a bowling arm be used by participants in top level play? I know Kelvin Kerkow uses a cane.

 Strategy

What is the preferred length for each player? What lengths has each player preferred in prior matches? If involved in a tie breaker and given the mat, what positions and lengths does each player prefer?

What bowls does each player use in the match? Is either player under contract to use a particular make of bowls?

Tactics

Some top bowlers drive very hard, apparently to reduce the bias of their bowl; others have a more controlled delivery, apparently just trying to produce a consistent but small amount of curl. What is the best strategy given the rink conditions?

Why are on-shots so difficult on the carpet?

Do professional bowlers deliver their bowl differently when they need to deliver a.bowl close to one of the re-spot points?

Very rarely does one see bowlers at this level try to push one of their short bowls over to make it closer to the jack. Why is this?

Discussion of the use of the mat and possession of the mat. do statistics indicate that possessing the mat is an advantage or is possessing the mat just the consequence of being the better player and hence being forced to take the mat.

Why is it that we so seldom see professional bowlers bring the mat up to the hog line and bowl short lengths with the jack on the front T?

Style

What are the stare point for the different participants? What about particulars of stance? Why does the marker tell the participants the distance of the jack; ordinary bowlers need to estimate the length themselves?

Some bowlers use a Bryant twist in their backswing; what are the pros and cons of this?

Many professional bowlers walk off the mat in their delivery and are not behind the mat when their bowl stops. Isn’t this a violation of the rules?

Many bowlers bend the knee of their anchor foot behind their advancing leg during delivery. Why do they do this?

Some international bowlers seem to be looking down at their feet when they deliver the bowl (like Darren Burnett ). How are they controlling line? Along each side of the indoor rink there are pictures on the siding. Do bowlers use these images as aim points?

Andy Thomson has a strange set up in which he stands straight without any knee bending, then he bends over completely from the waist placing the bowl on his shoe tops and then proceeds to deliver. Comment on the advantage of this approach. Ask him how and why he developed this style? Other bowlers have other unique habits that viewers would be eager to learn more about.

 At least one former world champion, David Gourlay, often asks the marker to move apparently because he needs to see the boundary strip on the front ditch. Is he using the boundary marker for taking his grass? Many everyday bowlers take as a stare point some discolouration on a carpet or pock mark on a grass green but the indoor carpet appears perfectly blank. How does this change, taking and maintaining a draw line?

Top bowlers, like Greg Harlow, are noted to be moving around on the mat to make fine adjustments to their deliveries? Could the commentator point out when this is being done, explain more about it and propose a reason for doing it under the circumstances of play?

 The Play

What are the statistics concerning which hand each bowler is playing? How is each bowler’s performance going away from the commentary box versus coming towards it? Is either bowler leading off playing consistently around  the clock?

Sometimes the competitors use different grips. Could the commentators demonstrate these grips on camera?

Quite often commentators make some remark intended for viewers new to bowls; however, these usually pertain just to the rules. Couldn’t it sometimes be mentioned about the built in bias of the bowls and how that bias is quite independent of the velocity with which they are rolled (so long as the surface is completely flat and horizontal). Even long time social bowlers seem to think that if a bowl ends up short but on what seems like a perfect path to the jack, all that is needed is more weight on the same line! It is not intuitive that line and length are not correlated!

Commentators are often heard to maintain that differences in bowling are attributable to changes in the temperature inside the rink (during indoor bowling). Using a bowling ramp to deliver identical bowls, could you produce a video to show that this is true?  Is this difference, if any, significant compared to the natural variation in a top bowler’s delivery? Such a clip could be could be shown to break up monotony in a match.

The Delivery at Lawn Bowls: Add/Subtract Length

Only one of the leads in a bowls match gets to deliver the jack. Rolling the jack is the single biggest aid for getting the weight of your first bowl correct. Ideally, your first bowl should end up a bit further down the rink than the jack. You will then want to reduce your length for subsequent bowls.

Physical Aspects

Experienced lawn bowlers can leave it to their subconscious mind to correct a delivery that is the wrong weight; however, it is my personal experience that if you have played for less than six years, you will need to think about some specific physical change in your delivery to produce a planned as opposed to a random length change. The modification in delivery could be one or more (preferably one) of:

a. Shorten/Lengthen your stare point

 
With the differing ‘run’ of modern bowls, my method to establish line is to pick a point on the aim-line of the bowl to stare at. Only personal experimentation will teach you how far down the rink this stare point is best for you! My choice is a stare on my aim line about 5 meters out from the front mat line. Once I have established a standard stare point distance, it seems that lengthening this distance causes me to subconsciously add weight while bringing my stare point back closer to the mat subconsciously causes me to take off weight. 
When the light is poorer, I choose my initial, standard stare point a meter or two closer (less than five meters). The lengthening or shortening is not changed.  If groundsheets are in use, a point on the front edge of the groundsheet (3 meters) may be an alternative.

b. Lower your body height

The higher you stand the more ‘weight’ is put into the bowl when your body moves forward in the delivery. Since I bowl from a stance with my advancing foot already a half step out from the mat and with my free hand on my knee, lowering my body height is not a possible choice for me but it is reported to work well for others with more flexible stances.

c. Reduce your forward ‘step’

 
This is another way to reduce the amount of body momentum delivered to the bowl. A disadvantage is that changing your step length can make it harder to hold your aim-line.

d. Reduce the arm pendulum amplitude

By lowering the position where you hold the bowl initially, before starting your delivery, you reduce the pendulum swing amplitude. Try to maintain your usual swing tempo. If you are a palm bowler, your thumb will not be gripping the bowl so your backswing must be restricted (or the bowl will drop). Instead of a pendulum swing you need to push the bowl out, so will be forced to control the length with your stride as in (c) above.

Mental Aspects

If you have played for more than six full seasons, you probably don’t need to think about any particular delivery modifications such as I have described above; you just need to ‘see’ more clearly where the target destination is. I am not talking about improved 'eyeball' vision but a feeling for what the distance means for how such a delivery feels. You have bowled this length many, many times before. Your body knows how to do it. As the sporting goods manufacturer, Nike, says in its advertisements, “Just do it!”
 Set up consciously, imagining the path your bowl will follow from release to the head, then concentrate on a deliberate straight backswing then turn the forward push over to your subconscious. When the bowl is on its way be conscious of how close you were to passing over your stare point so you can make a correction, if necessary, on your next bowl. 
One of the mental suggestions is to ’focus’ on the jack as the last-but-one thing to do prior to looking down the line to your aiming point, and, have the jack’s position in your ’mind’s eye’ during delivery (never look at the jack). David Bryant says that before bowling he looks back and forth between his stare point and the jack and he only stares exclusively at his stare point as he begins his bowling action. This helps the ‘hand-eye‘ coordination. Something else that works for many people is to imagine the path of a bowl rolling down the rink and stopping against your target. This will impress upon your subconscious the weight that the path requires.

Lastly, remember that using the subconscious to control your delivery only works when you have had both experience playing on the surface and a history of consistent practice. You cannot, "Just do it!" unless you have already often done it.

Grip, stance and all other aspects of the pre-delivery routine need first to become automatic and entirely replicable.  

Lawn Bowls Strategy of Continuously Changing Jack Length

In lawn bowling, the most common strategy in singles play is to hang on to the mat and keep bowling the same winning length until your opponent recovers the mat. 

The presumed basis for this strategy is that your most advantageous length is the one that won the previous end. However, this may not be true. Particularly, if your weight is controlled by your rhythm speed, your advantage may be maximized by changing the jack length continuously, from end to end, since only you have the opportunity to set your rhythm speed by using the same delivery as you have just used delivering the jack. Your opponent, in contrast, will need to first estimate your jack  length and then base bowl velocity on that.

Remember: maintaining the same jack length when you win an end assumes that your advantage at that length will persist even after your opponent gets experience at that length. Your opponent may improve faster than you. If the length is always changing, you will have the advantage of delivering the jack to guide his weight. 

Taking the Mat or Giving It Away: A Lawn Bowling Summary

The Greenbowler has written more than one blog article about this strategic decision. I have swayed one way and then another. Now after several years of experience, I want to draw some cumulative conclusions.

Intra-Club Social Bowling

When bowling with teams randomly drawn for fun, give the mat away. The reasons are that

(i)                the opposition is very unlikely to move the mat

(ii)              moving the mat causes your lead, who is usually an inexperienced bowler, to get nervous

(iii)            moving the mat can cause real anger outbursts from the opposition

(iv)            many older bowlers think it is against the rules to move the mat for the first end (it isn’t)

(v)              your lead may be able to learn something from the track of the opening bowl

(vi)            there is an advantage to having the last bowl

Competitive Bowling

When bowling in competition with teammates, with whom you have practiced, take the mat. The reasons are that

(i)                your team has already decided and practiced this so it won’t create nervousness for your side

(ii)              if it is the opposition’s home green, they will be most familiar with bowling with the mat on the T so you will want to move it

(iii)            in the first end it is not recommended that the skip play heavy shots so the advantage of the last bowl is reduced

(iv)            your lead will have the chance to deliver both jack and bowl with the same ’rhythm speed’ thereby increasing the chance to be right on the jack

(v)              your lead can choose his/her natural length

(vi)            moving up the mat can seriously annoy some opponents causing loss of concentration

(vii)          once the mat is centered up the rink, your lead can place a chalk mark on the centerline at the center front edge of the mat so the same position can be quickly reproduced in later ends (where the centerline is not already marked)

(viii)        if your lead is differently handed from the opposing lead, he/she can bowl from the edge of the mat so that the opponent cannot follow this opening rack

Post Script

In a competition, if you want to play your second-best triples player as your lead, let the opposition play first. You do not have to reveal the order of your team members until after the opposing lead delivers that bowl!

Changing Mat Position and Jack Length at Bowls

Which rink am I playing on?

Here are what I think are the key points concerning changing the mat location along with changing the jack length. Some of these assessments may be controversial. That is what the comment section is for.

⦁ If you are the lead, let your skip know if you are comfortable with moving the mat and changing lengths
⦁ Changing mat position and length in pairs, triples, and fours games is mainly used to help your lead outdraw the counterparty
⦁ Never change a winning trend….. always a losing one. Winning the last end does not constitute a trend.
⦁ If you need to change, change the mat position and length at the same time.
⦁ If it upsets the opposition more than it upsets your side, it is working!
⦁ Particularly when using a nonstandard mat position, visualize the path of your bowl before delivery.
⦁ Your initial delivery line at a new mat position should be parallel to the line you would have taken from a mat on the 2-meter mark; that is, your aim point on the bank gets narrower as you move the mat forward.
⦁ After your first delivery from this new mat position adjust your line; the rink is not flat and you are bowling across different ground.
⦁ If you get possession of the mat and need two or more points in the upcoming end, change the mat position. Although, the change may be just as likely to lose you two or more points as win them, if you must have more than a single you should risk it. 
⦁ If you are taking the mat well up the rink and plan to play a short end with a less experienced lead, place the mat two meters short of the hog line and call for the jack two meters from the front ditch. This gives your lead the greatest leeway to deliver an acceptable jack.

Delivery at Lawn Bowls: Subtracting Weight

Steve McKerihan is a perennial player on Canada’s Commonwealth Games Lawn Bowling teams and a frequent coach for lawn bowling skills development. He is also the father of Kelly McKerihan one of the premier lawn bowlers in the world.

Last week we were in a group chatting after a mens’ interclub match and he mentioned that a dependable way to take off weight, when your previous bowl is a meter or so long is to deliver this next bowl with the same arm speed and body weight transfer but to not stay down when you deliver your bowl but to start to rise as you release it. The reason why this should work is that by lifting your body as you release the bowl, you transfer some of the horizontal energy which is what moves the bowl down the rink, into a vertical component of energy that is wasted. As a consequence the bowl doesn’t travel quite as far.

The physics of this was immediately incontrovertible to me. Furthermore, this is why you are told to stay down throughout your delivery if you don’t want to be short. I said to Steve, “On Youtube I have seen top bowlers not staying down and I thought they were making a mistake.”

“No, no” was his reply, “they are just subtracting weight.”

Well, I’ve been bowling seven years now and I’ve attended weight control clinics and I’ve never heard this. What’s more important I’ve been trying it and it works!

Lawn Bowls Rules:When a Bowl Falls

I know Laws of the Sport of Bowls Crystal Mark Third Edition pretty well, but a situation occurred in a club roll-up the other night when I wasn’t so sure.

I got it right on the rink but I rushed home afterwards, got a beer from the fridge, and started thumbing through my reprint of the rules. Here is the situation:

 the end is finished; the vices go to measure but before they can do anything one of the earliest bowls delivered, which is close to the jack, falls. It becomes the closest bowl although it appears that an opposition bowl probably would have been shot if this first bowl had not fallen.

I advised that the now fallen bowl, which was now closest to the jack, was shot.

I knew that the rules stated that any member of either team could have placed a support against the tilting bowl before measuring began, but no one had done so. I knew that a skip could request that everyone wait 30 seconds after the final bowl of the end to see whether a bowl would fall before wedging it. However these rules clearly did not apply in this case.

My subsequent research shows that the relevant rule is 23.6.3

“[I]f a bowl falls of its own accord, it must be left in its new position while deciding the number of shots scored continues, and all the shots agreed before the bowl fell will count;”

Since no shots had been agreed before the bowl fell, my interpretation is that the head is counted with the fallen bowl in its new position.

Interestingly, since we won the game by one point, this decision eventually determined the winner on the night.

Moving the Mat at Bowls

Walk along behind the rinks at your local club. More likely than not most of the mats being played from are set within two feet of the T line. In almost every one of those matches one team is losing (ties excepted). In quite a few, one team is losing by more than three shots.  Why haven’t these skips started looking for a change that can turn their fortunes around? Yes, you can change the length without moving the mat but remember that when you are losing, you may not get that many chances to control the mat. Why not introduce two changes in one end? If you can turn it around you won’t be able to tell which change worked for you or whether it was the combination but we aren’t running a clinical trial here. You are just trying everything to give yourself a chance to win.

If a team loses badly and the skip has not taken every opportunity to alter the conditions of play by changing length and moving the mat, the loss should be charged to the skip. It is my opinion that when a skip falls behind by three or more shots, (s)he should make some change when the mat is regained.

What do you think?

A Proposed Improvement in the Rules for Bowls Sets Play

Contested to the End

Increasingly, lawn bowls at the professional indoor and even club levels has moved to sets play. Two sets of anywhere between 9 and 11 ends are played. If one team wins both or wins one and ties the other, that team wins the match. If each team wins one of the two sets, there is a 3 end tie-breaker. This is scored as best bowl wins the end. The side that wins two of these extra ends wins the match.

What seems to me to be unfair is that the choice of which side either has possession of the mat or the last bowl in the first and third ends is determined by a coin toss. I feel it would be an improvement if this advantage went to the side that had the best overall score when the two sets are considered together. For example, if side A wins the first set 11-2 and losses the second set to side B 10-11. The overall score is 21-13 in A’s favor and it should receive the choice in ends 1 and 3. If the overall score is also tied then a coin toss would be appropriate.

This modification of the rules would have another advantage. A team that is seriously behind in the first set would need to continue to play hard to narrow the gap they lose by to try to preserve an increased chance if the match ended up in a tie-break. As the rules now stand, a team losing the first set badly can give up the first set before it is actually over and just start preparing for the second set.

Short Bowls: The Number 1 Problem of Social Lawn Bowlers

The picture above shows a not-atypical head from a club triples game.  Because bowlers focus on the jack when assessing their proper weight more than 50% of shots don’t make it up to the jack. This is a waste because if the jack is touched by a bowl it essentially always moves back and away from whichever bowls have been left short. Another disadvantage of bowling short is that when such a bowl falls, it falls away from the jack. On the other hand, a bowl delivered behind the jack normally falls back towards the jack bringing it closer.

Skips can easily repair this deficiency simply by putting down their foot as the target one meter behind the jack. Imagine how different the above picture of a head would look if all the bowls were a meter further up the green. There would be many more bowls snuggling around the jack with a few good ‘catcher’ bowls behind it.

More about Choosing Your Stare Point in Lawn Bowls

I have found that choosing a stare point about 5 meters in advance of the front edge of the mat works best for me. In fact, when helping beginners, I often make a chalk mark at that distance at approximately the correct angle for their bowls’ bias. This way the beginner gets a clearer idea of whether (s)he is properly controlling their delivery angle just by watching whether his or her bowl passes over the chalk mark.

Regular bowlers must struggle to identify slight imperfections in the grass or carpet to stare at. I have found recently that squatting on the mat while looking down at the far bank helps me choose a stare point that is truly on my aim line. There is a bonus. After I stand up and assume my erect delivery stance, all this time holding that stare point, I deliver my bowl more quickly, because the longer I have to hold my stare point the more likely my view of it will slip! As a consequence, I bowl better and faster.

If your club uses ground sheets all the time to protect the green from dumpers making divots (Etobicoke in Toronto)you can derive an additional advantage. The front edge of the ground sheet is about three meters in advance of the front edge of the mat. Often one can find a mark on this edge and move it onto your aim line by shifting your anchor foot position slightly on the mat. Thus, for example, by moving your setup position on the mat slightly your chosen aim point on the front bank and some distinctly visible mark on the front edge of the ground sheet can be lined up, so that all you need to do is roll your bowl over this distinct mark. This strategy is made easier by the change in the World Bowls Rules that now only requires a part of one foot to be on or over the mat at the moment  the bowl is released from your hand.
This strategy is particular useful at clubs (such as Etobicoke LBC) where a small V cut has been made in the center of each end of the ground sheet to assist in centering it. Using this V-cut in the ground sheet is particularly  useful when bowling in the evening under artificial lights where seeing clearly is more of a struggle.

War: A New Game Played with Lawn Bowls

War is a game I have devised that is played with lawn bowls on a lawn bowling rink. It develops skills that help in standard lawn bowls competitions but makes greater use of aggressive shots while deemphasizing the draw shot. When integrated into a practice routine, the game tactics emphasize drives, on-shots, blockers, and positional bowls. It is intended as a more boisterous game.

War was imagined as being played between two players each of whom delivers four bowls. Variants of the game can be imagined with teams and more bowls delivered per side. Unlike conventional bowls, however, an extra set of 4 bowls is involved in the game. These bowls are called the bodyguards. It speeds up the game if these four bowls are of a distinct color which is easily visible from the mat. In the picture, these bowls are solid yellow. At the beginning of each end the four ‘bodyguard bowls’ are grouped within a bowl length of the jack forming a tight rectangular box around the jack
 ( two slightly in front and two slightly behind it, as in the picture). The jack itself is centered at the hog line for the first two ends, then at a spot 3 meters behind the hog line for two ends, and finally 10 meters behind the hog line for two ends.

In alternate ends, a side either attacks the ‘king’(the jack) and his bodyguard bowls or defends them. The object is to end up with your side's bowls closer to the jack wherever it ends up. The scoring is as usual. In an end, the maximum score for the attacking side is four while for the defending side, the maximum is eight, since the bodyguard bowls count as defenders. The attacking side always throws the first bowl. If the jack is driven out of bounds, it is re-spotted centered 2 meters from the front ditch. Before the first bowl is rolled the defending side is lying 4 (the bodyguard bowls). Players alternate between playing attacker or defender.

The attacking side usually drives at or delivers a running shot through the head to break the jack away from the bodyguard bowls, although any strategy is permitted. The defending side usually tries to place blocking bowls in front, receiving bowls at the back, or covering bowls at the respot point. Again the strategy is up to the players.

When the head is seriously broken apart the game becomes a competition to draw closest to the new jack position.

Try it. You will get practice with many shots differing from just drawing to the jack.

The Problem of Bad Jack Delivery in Lawn Bowls

 

Alas, Good-bye Portugal 2018

Leads at lawn bowling clubs are usually the least experienced, most unskilled bowlers.

Singles players deliver their own jacks, but singles competitions are relatively rare except at the highest echelons of the sport.

As a consequence, you will rarely see any player practicing delivering jacks to precise distances. This is just the way the world is and I accept it. What I am ready to complain about is the increasingly common practice of skips that simply place the jack at a proper length when it is delivered too short or place it on the tee when it is delivered into the ditch. Yes- when a lead fumbles with the jack it is annoying and it slows down the game; but, to not return it for delivery by the opposing lead insults the contribution of leads in general and good leads in particular.

In the matches against touring English teams that  I have been playing in  these last few weeks at the Valverde Bowls Club (before returning to Canada), I have seen this three or four times. Only once was the jack returned, as required by the rules, to the opposing lead.

I will grant you that there may be some skips who are so frustrated by the inability of leads to deliver the jack the length called for, that they just give up on that part of the tactical game. On the other hand, I rarely hear a skip call out, “Good jack!” to his/her lead to encourage them. Dumbing down our game is not going to make it more popular.    

Taking the Mat when Playing on End Rinks at Lawn Bowls

Greenbowler has talked about the pros and cons between ‘taking the mat’ or letting the opponents ‘lead the way’. Whatever readers’ opinions on this may be, there is one situation where the decision is even more clear cut than usual. An example arose in a match I played this year.

 
We were playing on an end rink. Such rinks tend to have a chronic problem of wonkiness. Very often the hand closest to the side ditch is seriously un-level or the grass is patchy or trampled down. There is a serious risk that only the other hand will be playable. If you win the toss, you take the mat and try to get that first bowl in on the side away from this possible trouble. If you get shot, it is very easy to block up this playable side.

 In this particular instance, the opponents won the toss but gave the mat away. We got off to a good start. As lead, I never delivered a single bowl on the hand close to the side ditch. When bowls seemed to block my preferred hand, I changed my position on the mat to avoid those bowls but kept bowling the same hand. Many times our opponents tried to draw on the wonky side, almost uniformly with bad results.

Twenty five percent of lawn bowling rinks are end rinks. Be prepared for their special strategic requirements.

Head Reading at Lawn Bowls: The Enemy Cluster and the Need for Cover

Sometimes when you are ‘up’ in a head, the greatest tactical danger is a cluster of enemy bowls somewhere behind the jack.  The level of danger is usually proportional to the largest area contained within a polygon formed by joining the bowl positions by imaginary straight lines. For example, three bowls close together can be visualized being in a triangle; four enemy bowls close together can be visualized as being either in the quadrilateral or the largest triangle that can be made from the positions of any three of the bowls.

Even a grouping of two opposition bowls behind the jack can represent an incipient cluster because if the other side trails the jack back towards these bowls, the delivered bowl can often become part of the cluster.

The danger is that the jack may be moved to a location where all these opposing bowls will become counters.  The resolution of this danger is for your side to deliver a bowl into this polygon shaped area.  

Head Reading at Lawn Bowls: The Motif of the ‘Firm Wood Target’

 The motif called ‘firm wood target’ is a configuration of two bowls that sit about one bowl width apart side by side short of the jack. Preferably these two bowls sit centered in front of the jack. These two bowls can be any mixture of your own and opposition bowls. The essential characteristic of this configuration is that the gap between these bowls is such that it is highly unlikely or impossible for you to deliver a bowl that passes between them without touching one or the other of them.

Such a configuration promises a wide target with several promising outcomes when a bowl is delivered at them with a few meters of weight.

If both bowls in the pair are opposition bowls your shot should be delivered with the more weight. The objective is to remove both bowls and have your own bowl trickle on a bit to end up near the jack.

 When one of the pair is an opposing bowl and the other is your own, favorable outcomes arise when you achieve the same double takeout as described above as well as when you strike your own bowl into the shot position. Because the possibility also exists for you to promote the opposition bowl it is required thatthis opposing bowl be already a counter.

When both bowls in the pair are your own any hit on the pair with sufficient weight to move one or both will be favorable for you. It is the most preferred situation.

The slower the green the more likely a successful outcome becomes from this shot. The slower the green the firmer and straighter this shot needs to be delivered.