The Tyro Lead Bowler in Triples

When you are the tyro lead bowler in triples, weight is a more important concern than line. If you are within three feet either side of the jack that is probably good enough for a back bowl, but being three feet in front of the jack almost guarantees that that bowl of yours will not enter into the scoring. Think of being lead as being slightly blind. You see the jack position but that is quite likely not where the jack will be resting when the score is taken; therefore, what one should focus on is depth. If the jack moves it almost certainly will be away from you towards the forward ditch; consequently, it is rather desirable to be a yard on and indeed one should err on the side of being longer rather than shorter. Four feet short is a bad bowl; four feet long can be useful for the development of the head. Four feet short cannot be promoted easily so it is likely out of the scoring. Grassing two yard on-bowls gives your second and skip some things to work with in developing a scoring situation. A close bowl by a lead in triples rarely survives as shot. There are too many good bowlers to follow and a bowl close up to the jack makes an excellent target for through shots. Even if both the opposing lead’s bowls are 1^st and 2^nd shots, your side’s situation is not too bad so long as your bowls are behind the jack. Logic requires that if the opponent is first and second shot but you have all your bowls at a reasonable distance behind the jack, you must outnumber the opponent in back bowls. 

Lawn Bowling Strategies for Competition

Strategy is an overarching action plan established before the action begins. In lawn bowls, strategy is set before a match, at a stage when you know nothing more than the identity of your opponents.  Tactics, on the other hand, are applied when the opponent is already engaged. Tactics therefore change as the situation on the rink evolves.

Strategy is invoked for serious competitions where winning is the overriding purpose. In bowls, both strategy and tactics are decided by the skip and executed by the team. Never apply strategies such as proposed here in friendly games. Strategies can embarrass opponents. It draws attention to and belabors their shortcomings. This of course causes bad feelings. Similarly, being a stickler for the rules, which often is part of a strategy, is bad form in a social game. When playing for fun, the uncontested unanimous purpose is for everyone to have an enjoyable experience; so be friendly, helpful, and accommodating to teammates and opponents alike.

Yes- a skip should still take advantage of opponents’ weaknesses during a social game in a tactical way, but he or she should not share this estimation of opposing individual weaknesses with other team members, as one does with a strategy, because that insight is a criticism of another person’s game. Similarly in ‘friendlies’, the skip should not pound away at the opponent’s weaknesses, end after end, but only use that advantage at critical points in the game. Even in a casual game someone must win and it might as well be your side.

So that being said here are some Battle Strategies for Cutthroat Competition

Against Less Well Conditioned Opponents.

 Competition here should be like war. Take advantage of the terrain. If it is hot and sunny, take a sun umbrella so your representative at the head is shaded. Wear hats, sun glasses, and wear sun screen as needed. Play steadily but not quickly. If it is within the house rules insist upon the two practice ends. Do not agree to shorten the required number of ends in a match if the tournament director proposes taking a vote on this.  Take time to measure. Move the mat up and  back regularly. Do not get discouraged if down at first but just try to remain close. Wait for the opponents to tire, sicken, or get angry.

Against a Generally Weaker Team.

Play long jacks almost exclusively. Having to bowl with  more force exaggerates defects in a bowler’s delivery. If a bowler is off balance at the end of the delivery, long jacks will exaggerate the damage. Jacks near the ditch frighten inexperienced players who do not want to lose their bowl in the ditch. They do not sufficiently appreciate the weakness of bowling short.

Against a Frail Skip.

Bowlers are promoted from lead to second to vice to skip as they become experienced, but, out of courtesy, (which thankfully lawn bowling is full of at the social level) they are not demoted as they age. Often a person continues to play skip even after frailty has reduced performance. Their tactical insight may still be strong but the actual bowling has weakened. Again play long jacks. More pressure will be on the skip to save when bowling long. Requiring more force in the delivery exaggerates delivery defects.

Against a Relatively Weak/Inexperienced Lead.

Bring up the mat to about 2 meters short of the first hog line so that your own lead can easily and reproducibly  place the jack near the ditch. Fear of the ditch will result in short bowls from an inexperienced lead. A strong head may be built before their skip comes to the mat. Your more experienced lead should recognize the importance of positional play generally and its added importance when it is easier to move the jack into the ditch.

Against a Team of Technically Better Players.

 If within the house rules, insist upon the two practice ends. If you exceed the time limit for the game it will usually be to your advantage. The more ends played, the more likely your opponents are to win. Good luck can get you ahead but given enough time it will not keep you ahead. Let it be the opponents who must play faster to speed up the game. Watch for foot faulting and call the umpire. Taking a picture of the foot faulting on your  cell phone camera could be unnerving! This can really throw off the concentration of an opponent or create friction within that team. Call the umpire if the opponents disturb bowls or otherwise misplay. Don’t try shots beyond your skill level trying to draw even. Just aim to stay close and look for a lucky break or that situation where their concentration is lost. Give the opposing side the impression that you think they should win easily. Be friendly and respectful but do not be bullied. Know the rules down pat because you are going to be a stickler about them. Express surprise and attribute your good shots to luck. The further the match proceeds before the other side realizes it could lose the better for you.

Against Evenly Matched Opponents

Don’t beat yourself. Don’t disturb the head when you are shot and have the last bowl particularly when you are ahead. If ahead only try to add safely to the count. If you have shot with two bowls remaining but they have last bowl,  put a safe shot at the back. Force them to make the shot that beats you, don’t do it for them. If you have one of the other specific advantages named here apply that strategy as well.

Against Less Skilled Opponents

In a tournament, the margin of all your victories often determines the overall winners. Also, there are prizes for high game etc.. Do not be casual, relaxed, over-friendly with those you overmatch. The time to mentor is during friendly social games. In competition concentrate and pile up the score. Beginners play more slowly, so you may need to speed up to be sure you finish in the required time and have the opportunity to score in all the ends.

Against Older Players with Joint Problems

Call for a measure when competing bowls are close. Usually the other side will invite you to go right ahead with it. With longer measurements, however,  you will need to ask for the assistance of the opposing second, which necessarily involves that player getting down on the playing surface. I have seen situations where it seems the other side concedes the point, rather than have to take the trouble to measure! I do not encourage you to do this in a seniors event. That seems too cruel; but in an open competition, it is the best competitors in every respect that should win.

Playing Away against a Home Team

Arrive early to take practice at right angles to the direction of play in the competition to get a feel for the weight needed to deliver bowls to both short and long jacks. Know in advance the tournament director’s ruling about practice ends before starting play. If within the house rules, insist upon the two practice ends. You will be unfamiliar both with the speed of the greens and which is the narrow and which the wide side for your draw shots. Your opponents know this. You could fall quickly and irrevocably behind if you don’t use every opportunity to learn quickly in practice.

Playing at Home Against a Visiting Team

All the opposite of the suggests above apply. Try to get the game started immediately.

Lawn Bowling to very short Jacks at the Hog Line on very fast Greens

Today I was practicing at my home club, James Gardens, in Toronto Canada. The temperature was 3 Celsius. The club is not actual open until May 4^th, but it was sunny and so long as I wore a vest to protect my chest and a long sleeved shirt to cover my arms the bowling kept me warm enough so long as I was in the sun.

The James Garden surface is a curly synthetic plastic material that is sand packed and very fast. Some of Canada’s best competitive bowlers (Fred Wallbank, Steve McKerihen) belong here because the surface is said to be very similar in running qualities to the short dry grass in Australia. The same surface is installed at the Likas Bowling complex in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia where I spent this last winter.

The problem I was struggling with is that it is very difficult to deliver a bowl slow enough here to just reach a jack that is within a meter of the hog line. I found that I must use no backswing whatever; the bowling motion needs to start with my bowling arm hanging limp downward and then I must  take a very small step forward; furthermore, the forward motion of my delivery arm must not start until my forward foot is well planted. If the forward arm motion began while my body weight was still shifting forward the bowl was several meters too long.

Those who are accustomed to bowling on natural grass in Canada would have to qualitatively change their delivery for such a fast surface and this can be an advantage at the outset of play against them.

Median of Medians as a Measure of Improvement for Lawn Bowls Practice

What one does not measure one does not consistently improve. This is because without measurement there is no feedback to quantitatively identify better versus worse performance. For measuring the accuracy of draw shots in lawn bowls several methods have been suggested.

 http://www.suncitylawnbowls.com/files/judson_accuracy.pdf

I am working on a method that should minimize the amount of measuring that needs to be done and so is the quickest way to integrate quantitative measurements into regular practice. Three bowls are thrown, one after the other, towards a position marked by a tennis ball or other small object. Several of these balls can be set out at different distances in both directions on the rink. The position of each tennis ball is marked on the green with a chalk X so it can be returned to the same position if displaced. After the three bowls have been grassed only the bowl 2^nd closest to the target has its distance from the jack recorded. A target at a different length is then selected for the three bowls going back down the rink in the other direction. Again one takes the measurement for the middle (median) bowl. After bowling an odd number of ends and collecting an odd number of distances, the set of lengths is ordered and the middle one is identified from this set. This is the median of medians distance from the target that you have bowled. The object is to improve this number with practice and experience.

What do you do if two bowls collide? Nothing -it is just as likely that the collision improves your median length as deteriorates it. If you can improve your scoring by promoting your bowls this should be measured as an improvement.

You might ask what do I do with my fourth bowl when performing this test. I direct mine at one of the alternate targets after I have thrown my three test bowls. Choose this new target to minimize any possibility of colliding with your test bowls.

Over time this measure should give a pretty good indication of whether you are improving or just maintaining the status quo.

The Delivery at Lawn Bowls: Plant that Forward Stepping Foot

The other day I was working on my draw shot as a good novice lead bowler should.
 My left-right accuracy was not as good as it had been the day before. It wasn’t because I did not have as good a stare point . Both days I had laid down a  3-4 meter long string on the surface of the rink from the mat towards the head and was attempting to lay my bowl right down the length of that string. The problem was that the previous day I was for some reason  just more consistently right on top of that line. If there had been no string I would not have noticed that the two days differed by how close I was coming to my aim line because that difference was often no more than two centimeters. Some experimentation, focusing on different aspects of my deliver, identified the key difference: I was not firmly planting the foot with which I stepped forward before starting the forward pendulum motion of my delivery arm. When I made sure that my stepping forward was complete before the forward swing began it made that slight difference in accuracy following the aim line and the bowls returned to being more consistently close to the target.
From now on making sure my forward foot is well planted will be the first thing I check when things start to go wrong

Thanks to the Likas Lawn Bowling Complex in Sabah, Malaysia

To avoid the winter ice and snow of Canada, I spent January through March of 2013 in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia.  This is in the tropics on the island of Borneo in what we westerners used to call the East Indies. Malaysia has a big program teaching lawn bowling to young people and I witnessed the skill of these students while playing at the Likas Lawn Bowling Complex in Kota Kinabalu. I was welcomed enthusiastically to play at this facility and for this I would like to particularly thank the President, Ladislaus Maluda, who answered my questions in advance by e-mail  and facilitated my introductions to players once there.

The Likas facility has two greens. They were both damaged by flooding. One green has been completely replaced and newly it reopened in February while I was there. To my surprise the surface is a sand-packed synthetic plastic material  exactly  like that at my Canadian home club,  James Gardens, in West Toronto.

 There are differences in the greens. At Likas, the center lines of  the rinks are permanently marked. This has the advantage that it speeds up the placement of the mat and the jack. The disadvantage is that as the rinks wear with heavy use some depressions may form along the center line where there will be more foot traffic. When the rinks are not marked, they can be moved from side-to-side by shifting the rink boundary markers to give more even wear.

A difference in the progress of play is that in all my time at Likas I never saw a rake. Players pick up their bowls or kick them back preparatory to playing the next end.

I also noticed a difference in the social aspect of the game. In friendly play, even when there are unused rinks available, it seems tobe standard for a singles game to morph into a pairs game and then to morph again into a triples contest as new players arrive at the club. This emphasizes the casual friendly nature of play and gives a new player a chance to meet everyone faster.
I
t seems that everywhere in the world, lawn bowlers are the most welcoming people around!