Experimenting with Your On-Shot

 

Several years ago, practicing at James Gardens LBC, I confirmed that if I maintained a consistent ditch weight in my delivery when I cut my aim angle by half I would pass through a head situated halfway between the hog line and the forward T line. Furthermore, if still delivering ditch weight, I cut my normal delivery angle to one-fourth, my bowl would pass across the centerline at around the hog line (as would be required to hit near a short jack).

A concrete example may clarify this. At James Gardens LBC on rink 4, playing in the North/South direction, bowling from a mat position at the two-meter mark, the correct aim line for my Aero 3.5 H Z-Groove Sonic bowls runs straight at the front ditch number on rink 3. This draw shot would return to center rink. If I want to disturb a head situated halfway between the hog line and the forward T, I deliver a ditch-weight (full-length) bowl along an aim line targeting the boundary marker between rinks 4 and 3. This is one-half the normal draw angle.

If instead, I wish to disturb a head located at about the hog line, I would bowl with ditch weight along an aim line targeting a point on the forward bank midway between the aforementioned boundary marker and the rink 4 rink number. This would be just one-quarter of the normal draw angle.

Further testing has shown that this procedure is transferable from one green to another. Of course, on heavy grass greens, the initial aim angle for drawing is much smaller. But note the important thing that does change from one rink to another—the precise weight you must give a bowl to travel from ditch to ditch. 

Remember, however, these rules assume a nearly level green without ruts. I would expect that the rules work better, the slower/heavier the green since the chance for error becomes larger as the aim angle becomes smaller. I would also expect that you will get better results if you drive on the narrower side of the rink.

Note that this approach will more violently disrupt shorter jacks because your weight will be ditch-weight throughout. 

A Different View of Triples can make Better Lawn Bowlers

In lawn bowls, triples is the game between two teams of 3 players each; each with three bowls to deliver. It is this variety of the game that new bowlers most often participate and consequently it is in this game where the largest differences in skill levels occur. This is quickly apparent. Bowls belonging to the leads, from either side, less frequently participate in the scoring at the completion of ends. 

This does not mean that these initial deliveries are less important.  What it does do, is emphasize goals for the ‘front end’ of a team that are happily less demanding, yet the accomplishment of which will dramatically improve their team’s chances to score well.

Perhaps, why these particular strategic objectives are both more realistic and more appropriate for newer bowlers can be made more clear if we look at these games as being most like three-bowl singles between two skips, competing on a sculpted playing field prepared by teammates, two from each side, who shape the field of contest by strategically placing their twelve bowls. This is a realistic way of characterizing the lawn bowls triples at a point when the skips are clearly and consistently better bowlers than the rest of their teams.

Looked at it this way, how many bowls, up or down a skip stands after the leads and vices have finished their deliveries, matters little because according to this perspective only a few of the bowls already on the rink are going to end up in the count. What is crucial for any skip’s competitive success is the disposition of the head in particular:

* how many wasted bowls are there short of the jack blocking entry to the head

* how many team bowls are within the key target area just behind the jack

Now noteworthy between these concerns is that neither is a question of line or bias but both are issues of correct or incorrect weight!  It is understandable that new bowlers' first concern is about line. The aspect of bowls that is most fascinating is that a bowl when delivered follows a beautiful predictable curved path. This is the problem for coaches because the most important element of bowls' performance actually is getting correct ‘weight’. By setting as the primary objective for novice players to get their bowls consistently behind the jack when playing triples we are putting the emphasis where it properly belongs. Choosing the proper line on which to bowl can be pointed out by a teammate. Rolling your bowl along that line is a matter of consistent form and balance.  ‘Feeling’ the proper velocity to push a bowl the correct distance down the rink is the most difficult skill and the one that needs to be most emphasized right from the outset. 

It creates better bowlers and better bowlers are happier bowlers!

‘Hangers’ & ‘Cutters’ at Lawn Bowls

I don’t know whether the terms ‘hangers’ and ‘cutters’ are established parlance among lawn bowlers but certainly no bowlers I have encountered seemed to have any difficulty understanding what I meant. I learned the terms from Bob and Jeanne Christie, who split their residence time between Toronto Canada and Sun City Arizona, and who gave me my first lessons and then my first experiences playing in tournaments.

Neither cutters nor hangers occur on truly flat greens. A hanger is a bowl that does not turn in towards center rink at the end of its travel. It ‘hangs’ out wide. A cutter is a bowl that travels more narrowly than its natural anticipated path. It ‘cuts’ across the rink and crosses the centerline. 

A lawn bowl is deflected most severely from its natural path when it is moving slowly. Thus an unobservable, slight sloping of a lawn bowling green modifies most that portion of the bowl’s travel when it is moving slowest- approaching the jack. Thus a tendency to hang or cut which is pronounced when bowling, say, east to west may be undetectable when bowling back west to east. Similarly, a tendency to hang or cut can disappear when the mat position is changed or when the jack length is altered.

The hand which shows evidence of hangers or cutters is likely to be a difficult hand to play because the extent of the hanging or cutting is likely to be a sensitive function of the precise line of delivery. Put another way; that hand is likely to be ‘unforgiving’. It is likely to magnify your deviations.

How do you distinguish between a hand that exhibits ‘hanging’  or ‘cutting’ and a flat green that demands more or less bias?  Hanging and cutting normally show the greatest amount of deviation from their normal curvature at the end of their travel when your bowl is moving slowest. When you take the wrong line you will instead recognize it almost instantly; certainly before your bowl reaches mid-rink. With a hanger or cutter, you will not realize that your bowl is going to miss its target badly until the bowl has passed its shoulder and starts what should be its normal turn in towards the jack.

Best Delivery Style for New Bowlers

 

After 7 years of playing lawn bowls I am generally happy with my delivery; happy with my weight control, happy with my line control, and happy with my consistency. The way I now bowl is substantially different from what I was originally taught. What introductory coaches teach can only serve as a standard starting point for the evolution of each player’s particular style. 

Nevertheless, it is fair to ask, “Could there be a better single form from which individual players could better evolve?”

I think the answer is yes there is. A better base for beginning bowlers would be the Shooters’ Stance because it is inherently more stable and accommodates more body types. Having the anchor foot angled to the aim line reduces upper body instability during those seconds when the bowler is supported on one leg as the forward step is taken. Angling the anchor foot also moves the bowler’s hips out of the way so the swing of the bowling arm is unimpeded in all cases.

The stepping foot on the other hand should point down the rink along the aim line or point at the stare point 3-5 meters ahead of the mat if you are teaching an aim point on the rink. This is so you can come down with your heel, rock forward onto the ball of your foot, and then walk through as if following your bowl. Walking off the mat is optional but the complete transfer of weight from your anchor foot is essential. 

The degree your stepping foot is initially positioned in advance of your anchor foot will depend upon how you set up your upper body. 

So far I have only spoken about foot orientations. The positions of each foot determine how you will support your body. Grip positions determine how you will hold your bowl. There are all kinds of advice concerning grip on the bowl. What is most comfortable for the individual is best for the individual. If there is any common element it is that the tip of your longest finger should rest on the center line of the running surface of the bowl so the bowl is released without unreproducible wobbling. The position of the thumb will depend upon the characteristics, size, and strength of your hand. Most introductory coaches and most coaching videos teach some variation of a claw grip to the degree that they call for the thumb to be somewhat opposite the fingers where it can squeeze the bowl so that it does not fall even when you turn your hand over so that only your thumb is under the bowl. Such a grip in my opinion is preferred if it can be executed comfortably but it is not mandatory. Some world-class bowlers use a palm grip where the thumb rests on the side of the bowl. Some persons, particularly older players, have arthritic thumbs or other handicaps that make a claw-type grip uncomfortable or impossible.

Even as I make this suggestion, I want to remind everyone that a bowls lesson should not be a person’s first experience with lawn bowling. That first exposure should not be a pedagogic opportunity; rather, it is a marketing opportunity. The goal is to fascinate, not to improve. The most fascinating aspect of bowls is that a bowl follows a beautiful predictable curved path; hence, tyros it is hoped will first pick up how to take grass and draw towards a jack.

This is a problem for actual teaching because the most important element of performance is really getting the correct ‘weight’.

Bowls Tactics: When you are Ahead in the Last End but Have the Mat

Fall 2020 Willowdale LBC

 

Introduction

Lawn bowls is a game where consistency is rewarded. It is not how close a particular single delivery is to the jack; it is how often your bowls finish close to the jack. Throughout most of a match, no-one should fret if an opponent builds up a big lead beating your own close deliveries. So long as your side consistently bowls well, the law of averages should be trusted to even out the difference.

When the final ends come around, however, such faith is no longer warranted. To win the match the team that is behind must act in ways that might be imprudent any other time and the team that is leading must be aware of this and take appropriate counter-measures.

The more shots a side is behind, the sooner these more daring tactics need to be invoked. As the side in the lead, remember that in this situation it is the opponents that must take lower-percentage riskier shots to catch up. 

The Specific Tactical Problem

The specific tactical problem for the side still ahead but with the mat is that your opponent(s) will have the final bowl of this last end. To be secure your side will need to have in the head at least two bowls that will reduce the other side's potential count to less than is necessary to win the match. If you do not have these two bowls, the opposing skip can potentially knock your single protector out of the head and may score enough to gain a multiple and perhaps sufficient to win the match. Furthermore, these two bowls must be disposed far enough apart that they cannot be removed together by this last shot. Moreover, though less dangerous, all your bowls should not be disposed such that this last opposition bowl can trail the jack to a position where your opponent would score sufficient shots to win. In particular, your opponent should be prevented from ditching the jack with that last bowl and scoring sufficient points to win.

Now, trailing the jack is much harder than knocking out a single bowl so getting two bowls into the head is much more important than protecting against a trail. So, when both dangers threaten, protect by placing the two bowls in the head! 

The Psychological Problem

Since your side won the last end (that is why you have the mat) in one way the psychological pressure will not be as severe as in the end just finished. Your side is at least one point further ahead and the opposition has one-half as many ends to catch up. Nevertheless, your advantage may be as narrow as a single point. If you are not playing singles but are the skip of a team, you should meet with your team before the end begins. This is your right— you have possession of the mat—don’t let your opponents rush you.

 

Nervous Inexperienced Lead

If your lead is nervous, inexperienced, or both, encourage him/her to try to deliver a jack of a length that feels most comfortable. This is usually the lead’s natural length. Then, explain that you will help in setting the mat so that when the jack gets delivered about that length it will end up about 1 meter short of the forward T. Then explain that for that first bowl, you will indicate with your shoe a point about 1 meter behind the jack and your lead should visualize getting the bowl as close as possible to your shoe. Without actually warning your lead not to be short you are asking him/her to aim for this shoe target behind the jack.

If you are playing in an intra-club tournament and your lead has hardly ever competed, do none of these things. Rather, with the mat where it is most commonly placed, call for a jack at exactly the same length as in the last end. Be as relaxed and casual as possible.

 

Under all circumstances, no matter how that first delivery goes, you, as skip, should call for the next delivery on the same hand just adjusting weight as necessary and continuing to reach to your shoe. Do not, except for the most extraordinary circumstances, ask your lead to change hands for the second bowl. Also, if your lead delivers a short first bowl do not show any irritation or frustration, just encourage an appropriate adjustment. At this point, your outward demeanor is as important as your lead’s skill.

Influence of the Rules of Play

What to do with mat and jack, when you are ahead in the last end and have the mat, can depend upon the rules in play.

Closed End 

According to the rules that formerly were in force in Ontario Canada, for example, all ends were closed with an allowance that each team could kill one end in the match after which the next dead end caused by that team counted as an end played with one point awarded to the non-offending side. In this situation, it matters strategically whether your opponent(s) have already killed an end before this final end. If they have, you do not need to worry about a kill since it would only increase your lead. On the other hand, if they still retain the right to kill an end, you need to preferably place the jack close to the front ditch making it more difficult for the jack to be driven out of bounds. If your preference is a short or medium jack, this can still be achieved by moving the mat up the rink so that the jack can still be kept near the forward ditch while the jack length is as you prefer.

 
Last End Open

When the last end is open, an opponent can burn ends that are not favorable without limit. Because of this, your side should prefer a long jack in most circumstances.

 The mat should be at the T line and the jack should be rolled full length. This maximizes the difficulty of burning the end. It is harder to strike the jack the further it is along the rink. At the same time, the closer it is to the front ditch the more likely it is to enter the ditch and be still in play rather than to shoot off at an oblique angle and exit the side boundaries.  Since you are defending a lead, keep count of how many points the other side would rack up if they trailed the jack into the ditch. Matching bowls is a good strategy  in this tactical position.

Re-Spotting (No burnt ends)

With re-spotting in effect, it is important to deliver the jack as close as possible to the re-spot location. The more possibilities there are to score, the harder it is to defend. The most common re-spot position is two meters from the ditch on the centerline. The best position for defense is to have the jack centered three meters from the ditch. So that if you can place your first bowl 1 meter behind the jack it will be sitting on the respotting position. This way you combine the merits of finishing behind the jack and covering the respotting position. You arrange for your preferred length by moving the mat up the rink. It should be set to the lead’s natural distance. The lead should try to place his first bowl one meter behind the jack on the re-spot position. It is particularly important not to be short. The more bowls behind the jack, the better the defense prospects. The first person to get a bowl close to the jack will have tremendously improved prospects. 

Bowls Tactics: When you are Behind in the Last End but Have the Mat

 

Introduction

Lawn bowls is a game where consistency is rewarded. It is not how close a particular bowl is to the jack; it is how often your bowls are close to the jack. Throughout most of a match no-one should fret if an opponent builds up a big lead beating your own close deliveries. As long as your side maintains a consistency of excellent bowling, the law of averages can be counted on to even out the difference.

When the final ends come around, however, such complacency is no longer warranted. To win the match the team that is behind must act in ways that would be inadvisable tactics any other time in the match and the team that is leading must be aware of this and take appropriate counter-measures.

The further a side is behind, the sooner these strategies need to be invoked. In a group of blog articles I am considering these last-end situations.

 

You are Behind in the Last End but Have the Mat

You have just won the penultimate end of your match; but, you are still behind. They have the last bowl. Your side gets to place the mat and roll the jack. Very few skips make good use of these choices. It is all you have to work with. You want to choose the conditions that make their side as uncomfortable as possible relative to your side. You need to squeeze out every particle of advantage from the situation.

You have won the end just finished. If it is obvious from the previous ends what to do now, just do it. If it is not obvious how to proceed, choose what is radically different. This may throw off your side even more than your opponents but remember: you want an end that scores a multiple and a mat position and length that makes both sides uncomfortable is most likely to do that. You must just hope that your side is the side least upset!

A theoretically good choice, if you have nothing else to go on is to deliver a medium jack from partway up the green. The logic is this. It will be harder for the other side to properly estimate the jack length but because your side has delivered the jack your lead bowler will have a better initial  ’feel’ for the correct length. You do not want a long jack because you might need to try to ‘kill’ the end (if the rules allow) and the closer the jack is to the front ditch the less likely you can drive it out of bounds rather than just putting it in the ditch. Alternately (If you are playing with re-spotting) you do not want the jack to be on the forward T because you might need the extra choices arising from re-spotting to a distinctly different position that would provide increased possibilities for the multiple you seek.  

As you can see, strategically, it is significant whether the last end is open or closed. That is— whether the end can be killed and replayed, or the jack must instead be re-spotted if it is driven out of bounds. It is advantageous to the trailing team if killing the end is allowed. If your side has delivered a very close bowl that also widens the head, your opponents will be assessing the possible benefit from attempting a ‘kill’. This is what you want them to be forced to attempt because if they miss, that bowl of theirs cannot score. 

Finally, of course, it is important by how many shots are you trailing? To be trailing by even a single shot when the opponents also have last bowl is a considerable disadvantage. No matter how badly the end develops for them, they will have that final chance to turn it around. You can do nothing about their last bowl. There is no rejoinder.

Since they do have last bowl, the best situation you can aim for is to be sitting match in hand when the opposing skip comes to make that final delivery.  This will apply psychological pressure. You need to make him/her choke!  You want to make that shot as difficult as possible.

Bowls Tactics: When You are Behind in the Last End and Don't have the Mat

Fall 2020 Willowdale LBC

 

Introduction

Lawn bowls is a game where consistency is rewarded. It is not like the high jump in track and field where setting records is important. It is not how close one particular bowl is to the jack; it is how often your bowls end up close to the jack. Throughout most of a match, no-one should fret if an opponent builds up a big lead so long as they are beating your own close deliveries. As long as your side maintains a consistency of excellent bowling, the law of averages can be counted on to even out the difference.

When the final ends come around, however, such peace of mind is no longer warranted. To win the match the team that is behind may need to act in a way that would be inadvisable tactics any other time in the match and the team that is leading must be aware of this and take appropriate counter-measures.

The further a side is behind, the sooner these strategies need to be invoked. In a group of blog articles, I will consider these last-end situations. 

You are Behind in the Last End and Don’t Have the Mat

The situation is that you have just lost the penultimate end of your match, and you are behind. There is a bright side- you will have the last bowl in this the last end! This is a very palpable advantage. So much so that you might have considered accepting down 1 in the previous end just to get it! In fact, the team with the last bowl under nearly all circumstances has a significantly better likelihood of scoring at least +1 on the end. 

The opposition has the mat and has the privilege of determining both the mat location and jack length; however, very few skips make good use of these choices. Most likely they will go with whatever length they had when they just scored or the longest jack possible. These are the commonest choices although not necessarily the smartest.

Strategically, whether the last end is open or closed has some importance. That is, whether the end can be killed and replayed, or whether the jack is instead re-spotted if it is driven out of bounds. It is advantageous to you, the trailing team, if killing the end is allowed. If at any point in the end, the opponents deliver a very close bowl that also widens the head, your side should assess its potential usefulness for attempting a ‘kill’.

In the final end, it becomes increasingly important to consider the situation from the perspective of the opposing side. Have they already won the previous round in the tournament? Are their points-for sufficient to keep them in contention to win the tournament? …or to be in-the-money? 

If it is a tournament you may have a better chance to overcome a lead if your opposition has not lost any preceding match. This may be contra-intuitive but when your opponents have a chance to win the entire tournament if they both win all their games and have a large shots-for total they may be even more interested in trying for a big final end themselves than defending against your bowls. You could even comment to their side, in a friendly way, “Yu-know, if you get a multiple in this end you will have a stab at winning the entire tournament.” This gives you in turn a greater chance to score a multiple. Your best chance to score big occurs when they try for a big end! On the other hand, a team that has already lost once in a tournament will be more interested in just defeating you, even if only narrowly. Such a team is more likely to try to match bowls with your side in a last end, blocking a big end for anyone. 

Your opponent(s) must deliver the first bowl of the end and you will get to see that result before you deliver your first bowl. You are unlikely to score more than a single unless your opponents at some point make some sort of mistake. It is your job to apply enough pressure to increase that likelihood. Fortunately, It is much easier to apply pressure in the last end, even while trailing, than at any other time in the match! To illustrate with an example, during most of a match having two of your bowls in the same catching position a meter behind the jack would not much worry an opponent (trailing the jack is a low probability event), but in the last end, the possibility of such a successful low-percentage shot will oppress opponents’ minds. It is not the unlikeliness of your success that dominates their thinking but the clear visualization of its possibility! When an opponent can visualize his own dramatic loss, that opponent will feel pressure.

 

If the opposing side’s first bowl finishes short of the jack, they increase the pressure on themselves. This is a very encouraging outcome for your side. It is even more encouraging if that bowl also finishes blocking their line on that side of the rink. Your opponent can now easily visualize a second bowl of theirs hitting that first one so that both end up short. Thus do such short bowls increase the pressure for that next delivery. “Should I change hands?” is the thought bedeviling their minds. 

When your opponent’s first bowl is short, your side’s first bowl must be behind the jack, even if that means it finishes between 1 and 2 meters behind. Any bowl behind the jack will increase the pressure. Responding with a short bowl will relieve it. When down, all of your bowls need to be up! None of your bowls should be short! Your best chance for a big, winning end occurs when your side’s bowls are all behind the jack and some of the opposition bowls fall short.

No matter where the opponent’s opening bowl finishes you must anticipate that your bowls will need to be grouped together somewhere behind the jack if you are to score a multiple. 

You do not need to protect against the opposition scoring a big end; if they score at all you lose the match. An advantageous head development is one where they group their bowls to one side of the jack and yours are on the other. Then, towards whichever side the jack gets diverted, that side benefits.  If luck favors your side, you could easily score enough to win the match. If not— well, you were heading towards a loss anyway!

The situation you trying to realize is for the other side to have no more than one bowl close in the head when you go to the mat for your last bowl. Then you will at least have the opportunity to remove that single bowl and stay for your multiple.

Bowls Tactics: When You are Ahead in the Last End and Don't have the Mat

 

Introduction

Lawn bowls is a game where consistency is rewarded. It is not how close a single delivery is to the jack; it is how often your bowls finish close to the jack. Throughout most of a match no-one should fret if an opponent builds up a big lead beating your own close deliveries. So long as your side maintains consistently bowls well, the law of averages should be trusted to even out the difference.

When the final ends come around, however, such faith is no longer warranted. To win the match the team that is behind must act in ways that might be imprudent any other time in the match and the team that is leading must be aware of this and take appropriate counter-measures.

The more shots a side is behind, the sooner these more daring tactics need to be invoked.

You are Ahead in the Last End and Don’t Have the Mat

If the situation is that you have just lost the penultimate end of your match; but, you are still ahead; well, there is a bright side- you will have the last bowl in this, the last end! This is a very palpable advantage. So much so that you might have accepting down 1 in the previous end just to get it! The team with the last bowl has the better opportunity to score. 

The opposition has the mat and has the privilege of determining both mat location and jack length; however, very few skips make good use of these choices. Most likely they will go with either whatever length they just scored with or the longest jack possible. These are the commonest choices although not necessarily the smartest.

Strategically, it is significant whether the last end is open or closed. That is— whether the end can be killed and replayed, or the jack must instead be re-spotted if it is driven out of bounds. It is advantageous to the trailing team if killing the end is allowed. If your side at any point delivers a very close bowl that also widens the head, your opponents will be assessing the possible benefit from attempting a ‘kill’.

It is also strategically important whether the tournament rules require a tied game to be settled in some fashion- such as playing an extra end. If an extra end is specified, then a further consideration is what determines who gets the last bowl?

Finally, of course, it is of very considerable importance how many shots you are leading by?! To be leading even by a single shot when your side also has the last bowl is a considerable advantage. No matter how badly the end develops you will have that final chance to turn it around. The other side can do nothing about your last bowl. There is no rejoinder. Even if things continue to go badly if you can hold them to a single shot, you will be tied and if ties must be broken you will still have a chance to win!

If your side is ahead by three or more bowls, you or your skip will probably call for you to match bowls with your opposite number so long as your opponent’s bowl is behind the jack. Preferably, your bowl will still finish shot. The other side will be trying to group their bowls behind the jack and then trail the jack towards this grouping. Your side will want to place bowls in among their grouping positioned preferably so your bowl is are also closest to the jack to catch any trailed jack and to apply maximum pressure. 

Although it is always preferable to end up behind the jack, your side does not need to share this same level of fear as your opponents must. Perhaps almost as important is getting your bowls close to the center line. Then even if slightly short a bowl will reduce the chance for the opposition to hit the jack and, if within the rules, ’kill’ the end.

Because your side has the last bowl it does not have to protect in advance against the most common trick for the other side to get a big last end. That trick is to bowl everything long and then with their last bowl try to push the jack into the ditch. So long as you are comfortable bowling long with your last bowl, you are not in danger. If they fail to hit the jack you will earn a big score!

In the final end, it becomes of enhanced importance to consider the situation from the perspective of the opposing side. Have they already won the previous rounds in the tournament? Are their points-for sufficient to keep them in contention to win a prize? If the answers are yes to both these questions, they may take bigger risks to make up the score and thereby present you with the chance to be handed a big end yourselves.

When your side is ahead it is the other side that needs to be daring. You do not need to strain for more points- there is a good chance you will be handed them!

Since you have last bowl, the best situation your opponents can aim for is to be sitting match-in-hand when you come to make your final delivery.  This will put pressure on you. Your goal is to be positioned so that you can refuse your last bowl.