Thoughts about Blockers at Lawn Bowls

Just because a bowl is short doesn’t make it a blocker. Usually, short bowls are wasted bowls. “When your side is down you need to be up” is a saying that means when the other side is shot it complicates your difficulties if your bowl finishes short of the jack.

Block shots are defensive shots, only contemplated when you have a favorable head to protect. A favorable head comprises a close shot bowl and at least another counter. Remember that if the opposition gains the shot after your short bowl, your blocker will block you!

When your side is up by two or more in the head and ahead in the game, and it is the latter part of the match, a skip can consider trying to block against either a draw or a drive. The usual trade-off is between trying a blocker and putting a ‘catcher’ bowl behind the jack. Choosing between these is a function of

• the skill of your opposing skip
• The closeness of your counting bowls in the head
• The length of the end
• Whether the opposing skip has tested the line on both sides of the rink
• Whether the opposing skip has back bowls
• Whether the target is wide but you need a high score

How does the skill of the opposing skip factor into this decision?  A perfect block shot confounds the perfect draw or drive line to the jack (but not both). If the opposing skip isn’t going to deliver that perfect bowl, there is no point in a block.

Blocking the Second Chance

 If the opposing skip has already tried an aggressive shot and can be expected to try again with his next bowl, a block shot is particularly recommended. Even a bowler who is just ‘good’ can often make a shot if given a second try. Attempting to ‘change things’ by placing something close to the line has a better chance of avoiding loss in such a situation.

How does the closeness of your counting bowls in the head enter into the choice between a ‘blocker’ and a ’catcher’? The word ‘close’ is relative. If it is unsurprising for the opposing skip to bowl within two mat lengths of the jack, ‘close’ is perhaps one mat length. If his average bowl is just one mat length from the jack, a ‘close’ bowl is, say, 9 inches. 

 If your side has only one bowl in the head, you should not try to block. You need another bowl in the head in case your ‘close’ bowl is driven out resulting in a big score against you.

Second  Last Bowl in a Promising Multiple-Win End

If you have a ‘close’ shot bowl and several others counting but which the opposing skip can probably beat, a block shot with your last bowl can really put pressure on the other side’s skip. The reason- if that block works and is hit, the bowl being delivered is unlikely to reach the head and your side stands to make a big count.  The alternative, putting in a ‘catcher’ bowl, does nothing to prevent the opposing skip from drawing to save so he would only go down one. Even a poor blocker in this situation may convince the opposing skip to accept the risk of changing hands just because hitting on it would be so devastating. 

How does the length of the end enter into the choice between a ‘block’ and a ‘catcher’ bowl? The shorter the end, the more likely an on-shot will succeed in disrupting the head or causing the re-spotting of the jack. Do not block against a skip who never drives! Don’t try to block against a short drive. The opposing skip has too little problem visualizing whether your intended block is actually in the way. Draw to the jack again. Or put in a catcher at the back. I estimate it is about five times as easy to deliver a useful catcher bowl as a useful blocker. When re-spotting is in effect, cover the re-spot position. It is an easy bowl to deliver and won’t disrupt the head.

Why should it matter whether the opposing skip has tested the line on both sides of the rink in deciding whether to block or set a catcher? A blocker can convince an opposing skip to change hands, even if your blocker is not perfect; moreover, changing hands is particularly prone to errors if the line on the less familiar side of the rink has to be guessed. It is a good idea for a skip to keep track of how many bowls his/her opposite delivers on each side of the rink in each of the directions. If you can cause a change to a less tested side, it will be to your greater advantage.

Why would it matter whether the opposition has a back bowl? A good skip will not drive if his side does not have back bowls. The chance of ending up in an even worse predicament will deter him. In such a situation an overweight delivery can be expected but not one where the skip would expect to lose his bowl out of bounds or in the ditch. Since no drive is tactically sensible there is no point in setting a block against it. Blocking an over-weight shot is impossible because its path to the jack depends upon velocity. Besides, it is the hardest shot to deliver, so invite your opposition to try it! The best shot is to add to the count with a bowl just beyond the head.

If you are going to try to block a draw shot, set your block just 14-16 meters in front of the mat in the draw path. The closer the bowl is to the mat the more different paths it blocks. A block shot is more likely to succeed on a slow rink. Watch to see whether your opposite moves on the mat to avoid short bowls.

A ‘catcher’ bowl cannot reduce the chance of an opposing drive hitting its target. If the target is hit usually at least one shot will be lost. A blocker can save the entire head because the blocked drive usually careens away without damage.  A blocker can convince the other side to try a draw to save shots.

Although pairs, triples, and fours are team games, a lead bowler new to the game often keeps count of how many of the points scored arise from his/her bowls. If a skip plays a block that successfully protects his lead bowler’s counter it gives a psychological morale boost, particularly if the lead is a less experienced bowler. It’s worth considering.

When you are trying to block a draw and the path is otherwise unobstructed your block should be short to cover different paths to the jack; if there is only one portal try to get your blocker into its entry. If you are trying to block a short drive your bowl should be 14-16 meters out on the center line.

If you are skipping and your side is ahead well into the game but your opponent will be presented with the chance to trail the jack into a cluster, don’t try to block. Rather play his shot. If you trail the jack your own bowl is likely to trail with it and remove the danger. It is the big score you are protecting against. 

The Forgiving Side at Lawn Bowls

 

Bowling in a particular direction on a particular lawn bowling rink may have a more forgiving and less forgiving side. This will not be visible.

If a portion of the path that a lawn bowl takes from mat to jack has a slightly concave (center lower than sides) curvature, even though this is undetectable to the eye, the effect will be to correct a delivery that is slightly miss-delivered. Such a side, whether it be backhand or forehand, is said to be ‘forgiving’. Conversely, if a portion of the path that a lawn bowl takes from mat to jack is convex (center higher than sides), this will amplify any miss-delivery and send the bowl further from its intended target. Such a hand is called ‘unforgiving’. The most frequently observed consequence of an ‘unforgiving’ hand is the failure of a bowl to come back toward the center of the rink as it slows. We say, “The bowl hangs out”. We mean the bowl can’t get back because it is on the wrong side of a ridge in the rink. Ridge is just another name for a convex surface!

Whether a rink has ‘forgiving’ or ‘unforgiving’ characteristics doesn’t matter in most instances. Both your team and your opponents usually face identical challenges. But what if your side and the opposition end up repeatedly bowling on opposite sides of the rink and your opponents are consistently getting closer to the jack. They may be simply more skilled— well, not much can be done about that! But the other possibility is that they are bowling on the more ‘forgiving’ hand of that rink.

When that might be the case, you need to switch to match the hand on which they are bowling. It is remarkable how often this is ignored. Today, for example, bowling at Valverde LBC against a visiting touring team from England, the two leads bowled 18 ends with each playing his own side doggedly, even though it seemed apparent that the side one opponent was choosing was punishing the slightest deviation in delivery.

The rules of bowls require that the team that won the previous end must bowl first in the next end. So if the player you are paired against must bowl first, you can bowl the same side and the same line. Follow him down! Beat his bowl! Don’t just stubbornly struggle when the green may be conspiring against you. 

When You Can’t Hit your Line at Lawn Bowls Do this!

 If you have been reading the Greenbowler blog for a while you could be expected to know the answer to this question: If you are missing your line— that is failing to roll your bowl over your stare point, usually a spot about five meters in front of the mat — and consequently either leaving your bowl wide of the jack or having it cross over the center line and end up a distance away on the other side, what is the most likely problem with your delivery?

If you author that blog, you would be even more likely to think by now, after more than 10 years of lawn bowling, that surely that guy would quickly analyze what was going wrong and correct it within a few ends.

No such thing! For 36 ends, here in Portugal, bowling first at Valverde LBC and then the following day at Balaia LBC, my deliveries were all over the place and I was left scratching my head, wondering what was going wrong. My weight was fine but I was wide sometimes and narrow other times.

I should have reread my own blogs! If one fails to get one’s forward stepping foot firmly on the ground before one’s forward swing is well underway, the chance to deliver a bowl along the proper path to the jack is seriously degraded. What was infuriating— well not quite, it is only a game— was that I have written at least five blog articles emphasizing this— more than about any other aspect of the delivery.

Anyway, my bowling today confirms it; that was the problem. I hope my readers catch on faster than I did when they encounter the same problem!

The Discipline of Pre-delivery Routine During Bowls Practice

 

In a good practice session, every bowl that you grass should be preceded by your consistent pre-delivery routine. If you are leaving out steps because it is just a repetition of your last bowl, then you are hard-wiring bad habits.

But let's be honest, if you get into the habit of delivering bowls one after the other to the same jack, at the same distance, from the same mat position; then, it is tempting to omit some of the steps of your pre-delivery routine because over that briefer period, your muscle memory can and will provide you an otherwise unavailable help getting your weight and line correct.

 Remember— you don’t get to grass bowl after bowl, in relatively quick succession in a game. An opponent alternates with you and not necessarily promptly!

It is better in practice to place two or more jacks (or flapjacks) at different positions on a rink and bowl to them alternately. This will cause you to follow your complete pre-delivery routine more faithfully since no two consecutive bowls will be aiming for the same target.

When I catch myself disregarding even a single element of my delivery protocol  I give myself a mental warning the first time it happens. I end my practice session if it happens again.

If you are not serious about practicing, let's agree to call what you are doing a pastime, because that's all you are doing-- passing time!