There are four tactical
situations in lawn bowls. The opponents will
(a) hold one or more shots or
(b) they will not
and your skipper can respond by trying to
(i) get a bowl in the count or
(ii) not get a bowl in the count.
Trying to get shot
or add another shot is the standard tactical action. Some skips almost always
try to get or add a shot with every bowl whether they direct it or play it themselves;
so (a)(i) and (b)(i) can be regarded as really the default choices. This
article treats situations where the best tactic may well be not to try
to get or add a shot.
First I will address
the situation where the team does
hold shot and the skipper should not
try to get another shot.
Situation One- If the team does not have a bowl at the
back and the opposition could change from shots down to shots up if they moved
the jack back, drawing another bowl on the head may not be the best strategy.
Situation Two- Sometimes when the score for the team or
the side is such that a second shot will give the team no advantage whatsoever,
the skip should look for and protect against any tactic that would give the opposition
a useful number of bowls.
Situation Three- Play a block. Without
moving the jack back, decrease the probability that the opposition can reduce
the number of shots held byyour team by seeking to obtain one or more shots blocking
the path of the likely opposition bowl that will have that undesirable result.
My second section considers situations where the team does not hold shot and the
skipper should not try to get shot.
Situation Four –Sometimes the opposition
holds a shot very close to, or touching, the jack. To move off this shot bowl,
the played bowl will need weight that could carry it past the shot bowl. Such
bowls - if they miss –commonly
leave a head that will make it easier for the opposition to score several
shots. Your team will risk less if it tries for second shot and delays trying
for shot bowl - until later.
Situation Five - The opposition holds one shot, your team
holds several second shots and it is a high percentage shot to obtain shot by
pushing out the present shot bowl; however, once this happens the opposition
will try to obtain the shot again. If your skip “allows” the opposition to
continue to hold shot, the opposition may choose to try for a position bowl or
accidentally remove its own shot bowl or fail to add additional counters. That
is to say, sometimes it
will be better tactically to add close bowls and delay pushing out the shot
bowl until the opposition has only one or no bowls left to play. This assumes that skip is
quite confident that (s)he will only require one bowl to remove the present
shot and this task won’t be made too much more difficult by upcoming opposing
bowls.
Situation Six- The opposition holds one shot and your team
has only one or two bowls in the head. The team could try a run-through shot to
push out the shot bowl; sometimes that heavier shot will result in shot bowl
but sometimes it changes the head unfavourably by knocking out your own best
bowls. Even though a draw shot has less chance of pushing out the shot
bowl, it has a still lower probability of producing a less-favourable
position. Thus, it may prove better to try to draw another bowl on the head
rather than try the run-through. Because the opposition still holds shot it may
become complacent. You can build the head and wait for a later opportunity to
remove their shot for a good count.
Situation Seven- Sometimes it will prove
better for a player to play a second or later bowl on the same hand and obtain
a close bowl rather than changing the player’s hand just because the position
of bowls allows the player a better chance to get shot after the change. This is particularly true with lead bowlers.
Situation Eight- Sometimes it will prove better to go one
down rather than risk going for shot because an error with an overweight bowl
will mean more than one down. The loss of an end by one rarely losses a match!