Lawn Bowls Tactics: When Not to Bowl to Get Shot

There are four tactical situations in lawn bowls. The opponents will

(a) hold one or more shots or

(b) they will not

and your skipper can respond by trying to

(i) get a bowl in the count or

(ii) not get a bowl in the count.

Trying to get shot or add another shot is the standard tactical action. Some skips almost always try to get or add a shot with every bowl whether they direct it or play it themselves; so (a)(i) and (b)(i) can be regarded as really the default choices. This article treats situations where the best tactic may well be not to try to get or add a shot.

First I will address the situation where the team does hold shot and the skipper should not try to get another shot.

Situation One- If the team does not have a bowl at the back and the opposition could change from shots down to shots up if they moved the jack back, drawing another bowl on the head may not be the best strategy.

Situation Two- Sometimes when the score for the team or the side is such that a second shot will give the team no advantage whatsoever, the skip should look for and protect against any tactic that would give the opposition a useful number of bowls.

 Situation Three- Play a block. Without moving the jack back, decrease the probability that the opposition can reduce the number of shots held byyour team by seeking to obtain one or more shots blocking the path of the likely opposition bowl that will have that undesirable result.

My second section considers situations where the team does not hold shot and the skipper should not try to get shot.

 Situation Four –Sometimes the opposition holds a shot very close to, or touching, the jack. To move off this shot bowl, the played bowl will need weight that could carry it past the shot bowl. Such bowls - if they miss –commonly leave a head that will make it easier for the opposition to score several shots. Your team will risk less if it tries for second shot and delays trying for shot bowl - until later.

Situation Five - The opposition holds one shot, your team holds several second shots and it is a high percentage shot to obtain shot by pushing out the present shot bowl; however, once this happens the opposition will try to obtain the shot again. If your skip “allows” the opposition to continue to hold shot, the opposition may choose to try for a position bowl or accidentally remove its own shot bowl or fail to add additional counters. That is to say, sometimes it will be better tactically to add close bowls and delay pushing out the shot bowl until the opposition has only one or no bowls left to play. This assumes that skip is quite confident that (s)he will only require one bowl to remove the present shot and this task won’t be made too much more difficult by upcoming opposing bowls.

Situation Six- The opposition holds one shot and your team has only one or two bowls in the head. The team could try a run-through shot to push out the shot bowl; sometimes that heavier shot will result in shot bowl but sometimes it changes the head unfavourably by knocking out your own best bowls. Even though a draw shot has less chance of pushing out the shot bowl, it has a still lower probability of producing a less-favourable position. Thus, it may prove better to try to draw another bowl on the head rather than try the run-through. Because the opposition still holds shot it may become complacent. You can build the head and wait for a later opportunity to remove their shot for a good count.

Situation Seven- Sometimes it will prove better for a player to play a second or later bowl on the same hand and obtain a close bowl rather than changing the player’s hand just because the position of bowls allows the player a better chance to get shot after the change. This is particularly true with lead bowlers.

Situation Eight- Sometimes it will prove better to go one down rather than risk going for shot because an error with an overweight bowl will mean more than one down. The loss of an end by one rarely losses a match! 

Scoring Method Can Determine Tactics in Lawn Bowls

Playing In-house tournaments at the Etobicoke Lawn Bowling Club a different scoring method is used and this requires different game tactics. The scoring is 5 points for a win and one point for each end won. Consequently if the game is close, your side is sitting shot, and the opposition has a close second, it is unwise to deliver the last bowl, if you have it. If you were to remove your shot, you would not just go from one up to one down- a loss of two points; you would also go from one end won to one end lost for a loss of another two points!

Only towards the end of a very close game, where getting the ‘spare’ could realistically save you the match, should you risk delivering your last bowl when holding one shot. Of course, if the opposition ‘s best bowl is not really very close and there is plenty of room to  draw safely without coming near your own shot, you should go ahead with it. Just know what you are risking.

If You are a Palm Bowler Watch Nicky Brett

Nikky Brett

Most bowling coaches teach beginners to play bowls using the grip that they themselves use and the vast preponderance of them use a claw or finger grip in which the thumb on top of the bowl secures it from falling out of their hand on the back-swing. Many palm bowlers as a consequence of their less firm grip use little or no back-swing and push their bowls down the rink. There is an alternative. You can see the delivery by watching any of the Youtube videos of Nicky Brett. Stop the action by freezing frames during his delivery. Push start then stop as quickly as possible to get a clear picture of his technique.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3QECKvG540

You will see that his thumb is not on top of the bowl but rests on the side in the palm grip. In his back-swing he employs the Bryant twist (his palm turns inward and the bowl is prevented from dropping by resting on top of the thumb. The ‘Bryant twist’ also enables the back-swing to go straight back.

Nicky Brett is one of, if not the best lawn bowler in the world. You couldn’t have a better  example! 

Tournament Play and Improvement

Everywhere you look the advice is the same: play with and against the best players you can find to improve quickly. In Canada, team play is not divided by pennants or skill divisions as in Australia. When you play in a tournament you play against the top people, over and over and so you lose over and over.  The more you practice the more pressure you apply to yourself. And of course you expect some improved performance to match the extent of the practice time committed. The more failure, the more practice, the more heightened the expectations, the more serious the disappointment. 

After four years I have to admit this doesn’t work for me.  I have started to play club events almost exclusively. I was appreciated. I got good results playing club bowlers. I relaxed. My draw accuracy and consistency improved in absolute terms.

So, my conclusion is this: if you are not competing in a ‘streamed’ environment where you play against opponents close to your own skill level and where you can advance gradually as you succeed, you should not compete where you will be always defeated . This is not the professional wisdom but it is what I personally find.

That Foot on or over the Mat: Crystal Mark Three

Foot-faulting is Still Possible

I played mixed pairs against a more experienced skip yesterday. After the match, he said, “Stand on the mat as you do when you are ready to deliver a bowl.” When I did, he pointed out that my anchor foot was only partially on the mat. My heel was off the mat. The ball of my foot was on.

“In a playdown  ( Ontario Regional Competition) you would be called for foot faulting,” he said.

“Not according to the new Crystal Mark Third Edition of The World Laws of Bowls,” I told him. “It only requires part of a foot to be on or over the mat at delivery.”

This is an important point. Many more experienced bowlers were brought up with the old foot fault rule: one foot must be entirely on or over the mat.  Bowlers, like myself, who have adopted the ‘shooters’ stance’ will have a greater tendency to have the anchor foot partially off the mat, because that foot is not lined up parallel to their aim line. In any case, calling foot faults was always a tedious business. Whether a player has a full foot or a partial foot on the mat is not going to make a difference to any game’s outcome. The rule exists to confine bowlers to essentially the same starting place for deliveries and this is preserved by the new rule.

Furthermore, the new rule presents more opportunities to ‘use the mat.’ This is the practice of changing the position you are standing on the mat to make small adjustments to your final bowl position, so long as you can repeat the previous delivery exactly.

The Number of ‘Seconds’ at Bowls

Regularly you hear lawn bowlers asking from the mat, “How many up/down are we?” Much less often heard, but just as important, particularly if your side has the last bowl, is the question, “How many seconds do we have?”

When you have multiple seconds, you have the opportunity to drive out the opposing shot bowl with the last bowl and collect a multiple count. If you have two or more seconds you can even risk losing one of your own bowls so long as the opposing shot bowl is also removed.

It is usually important that the target shot bowl should be at least even with or behind the jack, because iff you touch the jack your calculation of the expected profit in the count can change dramatically and adversely. If you have two or more seconds and one is a good second you can even consider driving out the opposing shot bowl when the opponents have the last bowl.

It is easier to connect with a bowl than the smaller jack. The probability of making that contact is enhanced if the distance of the jack from the mat is at least medium or most preferably short.

The 14 Meter Block Shot at Lawn Bowls

I have read that 90% of the natural lawn bowling greens in Canada run below 12 seconds. On such slow grass, the aiming angle for a draw shot is tight. With most bowls, one is aiming close to the boundary marker at the front ditch. A bowl that is sitting in the normal draw just 14 meters in front of the mat can block many shots intended to disrupt the head.  Surprisingly in four years of bowling, I had never seen this intentionally attempted.

Last Thursday night at the Etobicoke LBC I was skipping a triples team and when I arrived at the mat for my deliveries my side was holding three close shots with a few other bowls out front, blocking one of the approaches to the head. My opponent had last bowl. Three times I delivered very short bowls just over 14 meters out from the mat. (Any bowl that does not travel at least 14 meters is dead and must be removed from the rink.) The first two of my bowls may have caused the opposing skip to miss his takeout shots. His third bowl hit one of my blockers. The result:-+3 for my side! Furthermore, I didn’t risk damaging the head with my own bowls.

To deliver a bowl just over 14 meters I have found that I simply let my bowling arm hang vertically at my side, place my advancing foot in its normal forward position and then push out the bowl on its intended line without moving either foot. If your normal aim point is the boundary marker, the aim line should be slightly off-center and away from the side of the rink where you want your bowl to finish.

One of the unexpected advantages of such a short blocker is that for many bowlers the blocker is in their field of vision as they look down the rink to their aim point and is an annoying distraction even if the blocker is somewhat misplaced away from the actual draw line.

This tactic only has a chance to work on slow greens where both it is difficult to ’use the mat’ to get around a short bowl and when one side of the rink is already risky for the opposing skip. When these two conditions are not present it is a better play to put your bowls behind the head as ‘catchers’ or cover the respotting position(s).

Jack Strategies for Poor Greens

Throughout the summer in Canada, most of the lawn bowling rinks that I play on are less well maintained than those in Australia or Portugal. This is not surprising. These latter places don’t have a freezing winter to contend with. Whatever.  

An uneven surface favors less skilled players simply because anything that increases the element of luck helps them (or me as the case may be); however, there are aspects of poor rinks that can give extra advantages to a more experienced team that knows what to look for.

On some rinks the two meters closest to the ditches slopes off towards these edges by so much that a bowl that arrives near them almost inevitably continues on into the ditch. An observant team should not ask a lead to deliver jacks to within 4 meters of such front ditches. The reason: better players are more likely than poorer ones to deliver bowls behind the jack and if the jack is close to the front ditch such bowls will be lost.

In utter contrast to the above, there are other rinks that have somewhat of a physical barrier at one and sometimes both ends. Sometimes this is a thin strip of longer grass. Sometimes it is a raised strip of carpet on an older synthetic  green. Sometimes it is an actual strip of wood or metal intended to support the grass but which over time has become higher than the playing surface as a whole. This lip on a rink is usually higher at some places than others.

This lip at the edge of the ditch can be used to improve your control of your team’s preferred jack length. Move the mat up the green so that the distance from the front edge of the mat to the two meter line at the front ditch is precisely what you would like. Then, bowl the jack, aiming it so that if it is long it will encounter this lip at the front ditch. So long as your deliver is at or past the two meter mark and so long as your delivery is not so strong that it jumps over the lip into the gutter, you will end up with the exact length you want once the jack is re-spotted on the T as the rules require.  The protruding lip at the area of the ditch where you have aimed gives your team a reduced likelihood of losing the jack and a correspondingly increased chance to get your most preferred length!