Shoulder Season: Time to Practice Running and Drive Shots

At the James Garden Lawn Bowling Club in Toronto Canada http://www.jamesgardenslbc.ca/ , October is the end of the bowling season. By the end of the month the last day to clean out lockers has come and gone. If you know the combination for the lock on the bowling shed you can still get mats, jacks etc. Most bowlers are gone. It can be rainy and cold. Alley bowling, curling, hockey and figure skating beckon for a large part of the membership. This is a good time for me to get out, on the better days, to practice running shots and drive shots. Now there are no people playing on adjacent greens to find you a nuisance and to grumble or to disparage your first novice attempts. Even when you could confine all the bowls to your own rink during the popular bowling months, there was a vocal contingent who thought giving anything more than a nudge to opposition bowls was not sporting. Now I can practice in secret! From the end of December until the middle of March I will be in Sydney Australia where my wife and I have been invited to play and take advantage of the coaching at the Turramurra Lawn Bowling Club.  

Choosing Your Bowl Size; Different Advice

When I started lawn bowling in May 2012, I followed the standard advice. If I could touch both my two index fingers and my two thumbs together at the same time while encircling the running surface of the bowl, it was not too big for me. Following this advice I started with a number 4 Vector VS made by Taylor. (Such bowls are the best value/price delivered in Canada  and ordered on-line.)

Now after two years of experience, my own suggestion is different. Nonetheless, there is nothing wrong with this standard advice, if you are just going to be a social bowler who never tries anything but a draw shot. If, however, there is the slightest chance that you are going to get hooked on this game and become serious and competitive, your bowl size should be the one which you can hold firmly when you are holding the bowl with your hand inverted (thumb towards the ground) using the grip you will employ for a drive shot. (It is not necessarily comfortably holding the bowl this way; you will feel a strain from the weight of the bowl but you should be able to hold it 15 seconds without falling. The reason for this requirement is that the drive shot requires a substantial backswing. At the high point in that backswing you will be holding your bowl in your drive grip with your thumb underneath the bowl. It is at this point that you are most likely to lose your grip on the bowl.

I have found that if I use the next smaller size to what I would have chosen using the conventional test (in my case a number 3 instead of a number 4 bowl), my hold on the bowl even during a drive is  more secure.  I have never heard this advice anywhere but that is what works for me!

The Rules for Using Ground Sheets

I lawn bowl in Canada and the weather is rarely conducive to the most comfortable bowling. The outdoor season is no more than 6 months, to begin with, and we have a good deal of wet weather as well as rather heavy early morning dew. Tournament authorities often require ground sheets. Some clubs I have played at, it seems, always use ground sheets for club play. They have many players who drop their bowls, so I sympathize with these greenkeepers. In my limited experience, groundsheets do prevent divots.

Despite their widespread use in Canada, it seems not everybody even among tournament players  knows the rules that pertain to groundsheets.  Since these rules may benefit beginning novices playing against more seasoned opponents, assertive beginners ought to know them. The conditions of play as issued by the Ontario Lawn Bowls Association make no reference to groundsheets so the relevant rules apply without modification. I quote from the Laws of the Sport of Bowls, Crystal Mark Second Edition. http://www.worldbowlsltd.co.uk/laws/Crystal_Mark_Second_Edition.pdf

1.3.12 Groundsheet: a rectangular piece of canvas or other suitable fabric placed temporarily on the surface of the green to protect it from any damage caused as a result of a player delivering the jack or a bowl.  The rear edge of the groundsheet should be placed at least 2 meters from the rear ditch and at least 25 meters from the front ditch (in line with requirements for placing the mat described in laws 19.1.1 and 19.1.5).

 19.1.5  If one or more groundsheets are to be used (outdoor play only), the following will apply:

19.1.5.1 
The Controlling Body should consult the nominated greenkeeper before deciding where the groundsheets will be placed. The position should be in line with law 1.3.12

19.1.5.2
The Controlling Body can make the decision to use ground sheets either before the start of play or at any time during play.

19.1.5.3
The groundsheets should be securely fastened to the surface of the green using flat-headed pins (or an equivalent) that do not stick up from the surface.

19.1.5.4
The groundsheets should stay in the same position until the end of the game or until the Controlling Body decides they are no longer needed. 

19.1.5.5
The mat line should be placed on the rear edge of the groundsheet.

The last two are the most significant sections for my consideration here. The groundsheets on any rink are not to be moved from the initial positions they have been placed in. These positions are not necessarily the same on each rink. Players are not to adjust the sheets on their rink. The mat is not to be moved forward on the groundsheet. Its front edge should always touch or slightly overlap the back edge of the ground sheet. Note particularly that the groundsheets are not to be moved forward in the same way the mat can be when playing without groundsheets. Neither can the ground sheet closer to the front ditch be taken up during play. Only the Controlling Body can order that all the ground sheets be taken up.

The effect of these rules is to simplify the game and this in general benefits less experienced players. When groundsheets are in play the controlling skip cannot order the mat brought forward. The mat position is fixed at the back edge of the groundsheet. The only way to change the condition of play is by throwing different lengths of jack from the fixed mat position.

It is the skips and only the skips who decide that a ruling is needed on a law. As a non-skip, all you can do is inform your skip of the appropriate Law of the Sport of Bowls. If your skip does not wish to take action that is the end of it. Don’t lose your concentration over it! If you are playing singles, then you are your own skip and you can stop the action and call for an umpire’s ruling. In this situation, the umpire’s decision is not final. Law 56.2.6 allows an appeal to the Controlling Body.

Although, you would be in the right, trying to enforce these rules regarding groundsheets at any time, will only distract you. Never make an issue of them, unless it is in a competition exceedingly important for you. Despite being correct, you may nevertheless be overruled by local authorities who will be embarrassed and likely to disfavor you. The most you may do is delay play or interfere with your opponent’s concentration. Certainly don’t let it interfere with your concentration. If you think it will say nothing. In friendly games, all you might do is casually mention to others on the rink that the laws are in fact such and such.
 

Even More Improvements in Delivery Accuracy by Starting the Bowl Delivery More Slowly

I am a second year novice lawn bowler that has practiced and played most often on a fast synthetic outdoor carpet. My home club is James Gardens in Toronto Canada. Less frequently, I practice on natural grass at the Willowdale Lawn Bowling Club in North York. Almost all my tournament matches are played on grass since it is the overwhelmingly most common surface in the region.

My performance in practice and in tournaments on grass is unmistakably inferior to my play on the synthetic surface. At first, I thought it was just unfamiliarity with the surface, but even during a practice session on grass my delivery seemed to remain haphazard and my bad bowls random even after practicing for ½ hour.

Yet finally, by making one change, I was able almost instantly to start bunching my bowls closely around the jack, when only minutes before a comparable set were disposed over a rather wide area around it.   I slowed down my delivery. I drew back the bowl in the backswing very gradually. I then stepped forward smartly just before or as the backswing is complete and planted my advancing foot firmly. Then, and only then, did I swing forward towards my stare point and follow through.

Why was this timing problem showing up so much more seriously on grass than on the synthetic carpet? I think because, recognizing that I needed to deliver the bowl with more power, I was speeding up not just the forward motion of my arm but the entire delivery sequence and this caused me to start my forward swing before my advancing foot was firmly planted. Even my backswing was being sped up making the elevation of the bowl more in error.

It seems every action in the delivery, whether on a fast synthetic surface or on slow grass, needs to be identical right up until the start of the forward swing and this applies most particularly to the timing!

  Using this insight I contributed something when my triples team won two of three in the last open tournament of the Canadian season. We even got some money!  

The On-Shot, Running Shot, and Drive Shot

The Learning Dilemma

A common situation that enthusiastic novice bowlers get into is they get good enough that, at their home club, the draw master makes them skip a team, because, if they are put in as lead, that team will be too strong for friendly club games. The problem for the enterprising novice is that although free lessons are provided for groups of beginning players to teach them the draw shot, there are too few of these advancing novices to make lessons worthwhile for teaching additional shot types that any skip ought to have in his or her repertoire. Thankfully my coach loaned me a copy of "How to Play Lawn Bowls. The Centerline Method" This pamphlet was originally written by George H. Claridge, a top New Zealand bowler, and then revised and adapted by Joe Murphy for Canadian conditions.

This, in my opinion, is the clearest and most succinct treatment of advanced shots that I have been able to find. Most books for skips are filled with a lot of blather about team building, concentration, and morale maintenance that anyone with experience in the working world has already absorbed in management training courses at their workplace. This pamphlet sticks to the mechanics of advanced shot-making.

I will try to paraphrase some of these teachings rather than copy them since I am not sure about the copyright status of the publication in question.

The advanced shots treated are the on-shot, the running shot, and the drive shot.  These shots tend to blend into one another so I have set out what I understand to be the defining characteristics of each. 

Weighted Shots

Weighted shots are of several subtypes. All are intended to collide with something already in the head, either by wicking, wresting, trailing the jack, or just giving a reorganizing jolt a grouping of close-packed bowls in the head. These shots are delivered with enough force that they, themselves, are likely to stay in the head so long as they achieve their intended impact. 

On-Shot or Yard-On

The on-shot, unlike the running and drive shots, is a variation of the draw shot. It gets its name from the skip’s instruction asking for ‘another yard on’ meaning (s)he wants the same delivery path as the last but with a yard more length. When you draw into the head and come to a stop in front of another bowl one is said to “rest” on that bowl. When the objective is to hit the other bowl and come to rest yourself but move the other bowl some distance further along, your bowl is said to “wrest.” When directed at another bowl the on-shot is attempting to wrest or displace that target. To displace a bowl close to the jack, or to displace the jack, or to disturb the head, adjust by halving the draw width and increase the weight of delivery to take the bowl an additional 3.5 to 4.5 meters on through the head.

To recapitulate, the on-shot uses the exact same delivery as the draw shot but simply adjusts the grass and the weight. 

Introducing the Running and Drive Shots 

The running shot is a controlled weight shot of at least ditch weight. As taught in the Claridge/Murphy pamphlet the same ditch weight is used whether the head is close to the hog line or close to the forward ditch. The usual target is an opponent’s bowl. The usual object is to remove that target bowl from the count. Whether your bowl stays in or exits the head depends upon the length of the delivery path. The running shot is more accurate than the drive shot. It has to be since its target is often a single isolated opponent’s bowl, not a jack/bowls cluster. 

The drive shot is used to break up the head when you can reach neither the opponent’s shot bowl nor the jack in any other way when you want to kill the end or to displace a confined target accessible only through a port parallel to the centerline. The drive delivers the bowl with as much force as you can dependably control. Everything is done to make the bowl’s path as straight a line to the target as possible. 

The running and drive shots use techniques different from the draw. 

The running shot does not use any elevation to provide power; the weight comes from a long step-out that pulls the bowl combined with a strong muscle push. 

In contrast, the drive shot has a different starting stance that eliminates as much as possible weight transfer from side to side and uses a slightly different grip that minimizes the chance of finger deflections. this grip also applies wobble to the bowl to further straighten its path.  This is combined with a bigger backswing to provide power by elevating the bowl.

Running Shot Technique

 The running shot, it is generally agreed, is more accurate than the drive shot. It is only when many bowls must be dispersed that the extra energy of a drive shot is needed. The running shot is for a precise excision from the head while the drive is a grenade into the head! In common practice, the drive is often used when the running shot is a better choice. The delivery of the running shot begins with the delivery arm holding the bowl hanging vertically and the body bent from the waist to bring the bowl close to the ground. Some players use a little backswing for this shot but no backswing is preferred. In setting a target point, reduce the draw width by two-thirds and set a target on  this new aim line next to the object to be displaced. All running shots are delivered with the same consistent ditch weight. Swing the bowl a time or two along the aim line. The shot is delivered by pushing off with the stationary foot and taking a big step forward close and parallel to the aim line pulling the bowl with your body movement and pushing the bowl along the aim line to the target with your arm muscles. The idea is that consistency in the length of the step and in the application of muscular force through the arm and fingers will produce a reproducible weight that is at least ditch weight. The backswing is minimized because it is this swing that can most often throw your body offline and cause aiming inaccuracy.

Drive Shot Technique

Without Aggressive Tilt

The grip on the bowl for the drive is different than for other shots. It is necessary to use the claw grip with your three longest fingers working together on one side of the bowl and your thumb on the other. The claw is necessary because the bowl must be securely gripped during a substantial backswing. The middle finger must be placed along the middle of the running surface of the bowl. The other longer fingers can be in each of the gripping rings. The middle finger will be the last part of the hand in contact with the bowl and because your arm is accelerating to provide speed the effect of this finger may be exaggerated compared to more slowly delivered shots so it must not deflect the bowl from the aim line. The thumb, which for other shots is usually in one of the gripping rings, should be placed halfway between the centre running surface line of the bowl and a gripping ring. Your little finger may be placed anywhere that feels comfortable. When delivered with speed, this grip will send the bowl away with a wobble, which helps to keep the bowl running straight. Now take a stance on the mat so that you will be delivering the bowl over the front centre edge of the mat. The stance is the standard one except that the foot that will be stepping out should be placed comfortably forward of the foot anchoring you firmly on the mat. All the weight is on this anchor foot and the forward foot is used only for balance. The anchor foot should point at the aiming point, which is the target or a point only slightly displaced from the target. Unlike in the running shot, where the power comes from a long step out pulling the arm and a strong muscle push accelerating the bowl, in the drive the step out will be small and the power will come from elevating the bowl in the backswing. Body motions other than that of the arm are minimized. The body should be in a crouch at the beginning of delivery. Your back should be already bent about 45 degrees to bring your delivery hand down to the grass. Your forward step is going to be small because the step out foot is already somewhat advanced. The bowl should be released when your arm comes down to the vertical and the arm should follow through along the aiming line with the delivery arm. You must move forward off the mat when the bowl is delivered to prevent your body weight from wrenching sideways at the bowl's release. Holding on to the bowl too long before releasing it will draw the bowl off your aim line (narrow if on the forehand and wide if on the backhand).

Using Aggressive Tilt or Wobble

For Right-handed Bowlers

Hold the bowl in your left hand with the non-bias side (large centre disc) on the left.  Place your right hand over the bowl and grip it with the first three fingers, the middle finger being halfway between the gripping ring on the non-bias side of the bowl (large centre disc) and the centre of the bowl.  Place your thumb on the opposite side of the bowl halfway between the centre of the bowl and the gripping ring on the bias side of the bowl (small centre disc), your little finger may be placed anywhere for comfort.  Turn your right hand over.  Hold the palm of your right-hand level with the ground.  You are ready to step onto the mat to bowl on the forehand. The top of the bowl is tilted away from you.

Hold the bowl in your left hand with the non-bias side (large centre disc) on the right.  Place your right hand over the bowl and grip it with the first three fingers, the middle finger being halfway between the gripping ring on the bias side of the bowl (small centre disc) and the centre of the bowl.  Place your thumb on the opposite side of the bowl halfway between the centre of the bowl and the gripping ring on the non-bias side of the bowl (large centre disc), your little finger may be placed anywhere for comfort.  Turn your right hand over.  Hold the palm of your right-hand level with the ground.  You are ready to step onto the mat to bowl on the backhand.  The top of the bowl is tilted towards you.

For Left-Handed Bowlers

Hold the bowl in your right hand with the non-bias side (large centre disc) on the right.  Place your left hand over the bowl and grip it with the first three fingers, the middle finger being halfway between the gripping ring on the non-bias side of the bowl (large centre disc) and the centre of the bowl.  Place your thumb on the opposite side of the bowl halfway between the centre of the bowl and the gripping ring on the bias side of the bowl (small centre disc), your little finger may be placed anywhere for comfort.  Turn your left hand over.  Hold the palm of your left hand level with the ground.  You are ready to step onto the mat to bowl on the forehand. The top of the bowl is tilted away from you.

Hold the bowl in your right hand with the non-bias side (large centre disc) on the left.  Place your left hand over the bowl and grip it with the first three fingers, the middle finger being halfway between the gripping ring on the bias side of the bowl (small centre disc) and the centre of the bowl.  Place your thumb on the opposite side of the bowl halfway between the centre of the bowl and the gripping ring on the non-bias side of the bowl (large centre disc), your little finger may be placed anywhere for comfort.  Turn your left hand over.  Hold the palm of your left hand level with the ground.  You are ready to step onto the mat to bowl on the backhand.  The top of the bowl is tilted towards you.

I Can’t Even Accurately Estimate the Length of the Jack in Lawn Bowls

It takes a novice, like myself, several years to learn to control one’s body sufficiently to more often than not deliver a bowl with the proper grass, even on a perfectly level rink; however, in my opinion, this is child’s play compared to the difficulty of delivering with controlled weight. The fact is that standing on the mat I cannot even accurately estimate how many meters down the green the jack has been thrown. If my brain cannot determine that distance how can I instruct my muscles how much force to apply to my bowl? This inability to estimate the distance is more severe if I am playing on a middle rink. The closer I am to the edge of the green the easier it is to gauge the distance helped by looking at the closer side boundary. Often the edge of the green has its own calibration used when the bowling is proceeding cross-wise.

In this respect, the skip has an advantage over colleagues since when (s)he bowls (s)he knows from being at the head exactly where the jack sits. I would appreciate a skip who tells me (1) how many meters behind the hog line, or (2) in front of the front ditch, the jack is. On the occasions when I have asked, skips look at me quizzically or grudgingly. Sometimes they pace it off as if it was unnecessary information that I ought to acquire by myself. How can I be expected to deliver a bowl within a meter of the correct length without knowing that distance?

Perhaps this is a particular deficiency in me but what can I do to improve it or hasten the acquisition of this skill?


 

Again Remember--Plant that Forward Foot then Begin Your Swing

Whether just practicing or in a tournament the same problem recurs. I know what the correct line for delivering my bowl is, but I can’t seem to consistently hit it. It would be comforting if the solution were difficult and one had to investigate a long checklist to find the culprit. The truth is that 80% of the time it is the same thing. Why can’t I simply understand that it is the most import element of a precise delivery? Get that foot you step out with completely planted before you start the forward swing of the bowl. Then stare at your stare point and you will hit it!

I know I’ve written this before, but, if I can’t get myself to do it how can I expect another novice to keep it top of mind.

The Tested Advice of the Delivery Doctor

I tried the grip recommended by the Delivery Doctor in the video clip with the appended link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anEr9-wYtR0

It feels so much more comfortable! My wife, Tish, who is a first year novice bowler, also tried it. Our bowls hit their line more consistently and they ended up in a tighter group at the head! The advice seems to be easier to apply with narrow bowls with distinct grip circles on either side. Tish and I use Taylor Vector VS bowls but every manufacturer has narrow bowls. As the Doctor says you don’t want your thumb or little finger along the side of the bowl as 'training wheels'. You want the bowl to roll off your two middle fingers.

The conventional wisdom is that you want your index finger alone on the center of the running surface to be in contact with the bowl last. This does not seem to be best experimentally.